Leader has one end tied into anchor and other end tied into harness, climbs lead solo with soloist, silent partner or modified gri gri. when the second puts them on belay the second takes in as the leader progressively takes out back up knots untill they are being belayed as per usual.
or
simul climbing with some kind or progress capture device at belay, e.g. tiblock or rescuescender to prevent the leader being pulled off the wall if the second falls.
or
something risking a massive fall untill the second arrives, i.e. clipping the mid line to the anchor. |