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General Climbing Discussion

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Classic Climbs of Australia 16-Jan-2013 At 6:59:10 PM sliamese

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On 15/01/2013 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>I agree with Simey on this one. I reckon that power drill free ground up
>routes are the way to go on an adventurous crag like Frenchman's.
>
>How many of the established routes would be memorable classics if they
>were protected by bolts wherever there wasn't gear for a few metres?

From what i hear degaulles direct may be the best route out there. Im not saying a bolt every few metres. I dont think rap inspection is much good on any of tassies wilderness crags. I do however think hammering the shit out of pins, and leaving them to rust is poor form, but apparently acceptable. I'd rather clip a bolt than look at the shaft of an old pin that the FA used as a solid runner, and now is useless.

Simey, all those route have been climbed without bolts, being the obvious natural lines. Theres a shit tonne of good looking rock that would make some amazing routes. Again im not advocating a sport route, far from it. 40m pitch with 6 runners like some of the euro testpieces is hardly sport climbing IMO! Do i have the technical ability/kahunas? Probably not!!! :)