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General Climbing Discussion

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Advice on half ropes 15-Jan-2013 At 2:24:23 PM strerror

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On 15/01/2013 martym wrote:
>t twinroping doubles was a no-no? I'm sure it's been discussed
>a dozen times here & other websites... but that's their official line!?

I've been reading up on all this but the original link I posted actually contains the answers. In short, if you're using a half rope system, you CAN double clip, but it will typically place up to an additional ~40% of force on the piece of protection that you double clip into. Thus you might consider it for a well placed bolt, but wouldn't for a sketchy piece of trad.

>Also been discussed a thousand times before, but I've never quite grasped
>is why only 55kg??
>"Half ropes are tested singly with a 55 kg mass and must withstand
>five standard falls. "
>M9 to the rescue with a link...?

Again my original link has the answer. In short the maths show that 5 x 55kg falls is the same as 1 x 80kg in this regard.