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Bottom Feeders... 28-Dec-2012 At 11:02:34 AM TonyH

Message

On 27/12/2012 kraut_named_ulf wrote:
>Hi, I had some fun to follow this thread, since
>i'm the kraut named Ulf that made a first free accent
>of the route named "Einstuerzende Neubauten" in september 1988.
>My handwriting was and is not the best, the "r"
>switched to "v" and some happend with "e" to "c"
>and "n" to "h", but I have no clue what happend to the
>"u". It is a influential german punk band.
>
>
>Allthough it is almost 25 years ago i try to write
>what is left in my memory.
>
>The original route started with a boulder problem protected with
>the first bolt preclipped with a stick. The main point was to
>move with a big chisseled hold to some small ledge. I would say
>this was the crux move. Then it followed the logical line
>straight up tending slightly left towards the top, where i put
>some anchor. By that time i found that route pumpy and there was
>one passage that was almost as hard as the start (possibly close
>the the third bolt?).
>
>In retroperspective i would say the grading might have been 28,
>since I spent quite a while untill the first free ascent. I did
>climb occasionally that hard by that time, later i did even climb
>much harder, and now beeing older i'm less ambitiuos.
>
>In 1988 there had been many chisseled or enhanced holds in the
>centential glen area, almost all of them had been small 2-3
>finger pockets. In my route i broke that tradition and made
>a "big" artifical hold. The debate whether manipulating rock is
>legitimately or not, was by that time not really considered a
>point in the climbing ethic. For me a main point was not to
>steal future generations the possibility to free climb the route
>without manipulations. The crucial hold i made was obviously non
>enhanced. Since it was so close to the ground it actually caused
>as far as i was told problems with the rangers, who became
>because of my work aware that climbers do manipulate rock. Since
>i was on my way home i can't tell much about that dispute, but i
>expect that this caused the filling of the hold.

Solid gold Ulf. Good on you.