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General Climbing Discussion

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Extended NA roadtrip suggestions 17-Nov-2012 At 3:12:12 AM RNM

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Hey Steve, we've had twelve months climbing in North America now, and still feel like we have only just scratched the surface.

Deciding on a focus helps filter a little... sport, trad, aid. East and West, or just West.

Re: East Coast. If you love sport climbing, Red River Gorge and New River Gorge might be worth the trip. Not a highlight for us though. The Gunks were cool, but I would chose to climb more on the West Coast rather than take the time to travel and climb there. North Conway was good, but you have been there I think (you put us onto that?). Rumney was definately not worth the effort for us.

The trad climbing is what makes climbing in the US unique for me. So Yosemite, Indian Creek, Zion, Desert Towers if you are old and bold.

Also great were Squamish, Devils Tower, Lake Tahoe (perfect warm up for Yosemite, friendlier cracks).

Okay if you are passing through, Eldorado Canyon.

Sport crags Rifle, Wild Iris, Ten Sleeps were fun, but not highlights.

In Canada the crags in the East have little to offer unless you are there. The culture in Quebec is a nice relief though. Squamish as mentioned above is great, but not as long and classic as Yosemite obviously. Sport climbing in Skaha and Bow Valley was good, but not a highlight. Bugaboos look amazing, but very weather dependant, so did not make it onto our list this time. Also reports of crowding on easier/popular routes.

In Mexico El Potrero Chico there is some great long sport climbing, very user friendly. Locals very friendly and hospitable, food great, nice campsites. Lots of other lesser known crags here too. Not a must do, but adds variety, and a change in culture, and good for winter and/or when the visa runs out.

Longer adventures in Grand Tetons and North Cascades were cool.

Let us know if you want any specifics.

Perhaps most importantly, you will need to get a great van for the road trip... I know of one might be available in March next year...