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General Climbing Discussion

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Sport grades 'higher' than trad? 18-Jul-2012 At 1:08:13 PM citationx

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On 18/07/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 15/11/2011 dave h. wrote:
>>Speaking of specific climbs, did anyone else get the poop scared out
>of
>>them on The Gentle Art of Lyre-Bird Mugging, at Buffalo?
>>
>The climb name obviously didn't set your sandbag detector buzzing! ...
>~> though it should have as (if I recall correctly), Peter Watling was
>one of the first ascentionists of that route; and most things at Buffalo
>with his name attached from days of yore are considered 'old school' (read
>hard for the grade), by todays gym expats!
>;-)

Good to see this is the case. and dave, i completely agree, extremely scary! In fact, there's a funny story (in hindsight) that i'd rather not recall in too much detail about reverse-aiding the route in rain and freezing wind while the gf at the time lost feeling in her fingers, toes and every other bit of skin exposed to the air because I didn't want to do the crack-to-slab move (as mentioned, i'm using the rain as my excuse *cough*).
The last piece i recall having was two lobes of a green alien touching the outward flaring crack about 30cm before it petered out into nothing...