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another shoes question 11-Jun-2004 At 2:59:32 AM ness

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Ok dudes, I've been away at a conference, and am indeed here to give my opinions on my favourite subject - shoes. I am the Imelda of the climbing world - although sadle, since my move to the states, I have whittled my 18 pairs doen to an annorexic eight. I have different shoes for different things. My categories are:

1. bumbly shoes - when you are on something that is easy for you, or where shoes wont make a difference (Two pairs - 5-10 diamonds that are really shit and really old 5-10 huecos that were good once )

2. gym shoes - that i never wear outdoors - are always old shoes that have had a few resoles. I dont wear good shoes in the gym as the gym is for strength training (one cant learn technique in the gym ) and if i cant really stand on my feet in the disgusting shoes i have for the gym then I will be forced to get really strong. This is a theory - the really strong hasn't eventuated yet. (2 pairs - really old 5-10 anasazi lace ups and my old 5-10 huecos or diamonds)

3. trad shoes - shoes that are comfy still after 4 hours, which is about how long it takes me to lead anything on gear. If I cant feel my feet after 2 minutes then i will cry, fail, and probably die as a result. (5-10 huecos or diamonds ).

4. crack soes - stiff, and padded, need to be comfy too, as cracks are usually naturally protected. (1 pair - la sportiva mura)

5. vertical face climbing sport shoes - be able to edge, and smear occasionally. Really tight. (2 pairs - 5-10 anasazi lace ups)

6. Bouldering shoes - easy on/off, nice sticky well-fitting heel. (2 pairs). (mad rock hooker lace ups and old 5-10 anasazi lace ups)

7. Red pointing sport climbs that are very hard for me - well fitting shoes - very very tight. (1 pair) (5-10 T-rocks wayy to small for me)

If I am ever seen on a roof, the shoes are not the limiting factor. see bumbly shoes.

TALK TO ME ABOUT SHOES!!!!