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Honnold & Florine break Nose speed record- 2:23:51 19-Jun-2012 At 4:52:04 PM singersmith

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That's actually a slightly heavy rack for a NIAD. I would ditch the doubled cams but add a small HB nut for the Changing Corners and a cam hook on each daisy. But they are doing two pitches instead of the usual four so the extra gear is reasonable. A huge percentage of the route consists of 5.9/5.10 moves, just lots of them in a row; thus, if you're comfortable soloing 5.10 then a 5 hour time is quite achievable.

As was said above, there's a fair bit of fixed gear but mostly for a speed ascent you're just clipping the belays and leaving one piece per pitch plus maybe one fixed pin. The fixed mank really comes into play on the Great Roof though.

Hans is The Man, there is no question (although I once got shut down on the Nutcracker with him) but he is creeping up on 50. If there were two of Alex, which is to say somebody comfortable soloing 5.12 (or.13 for that matter) I think a sub two hour is within reach. What are we betting, Simey?