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General Climbing Discussion

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Failed Sport Route? 27-Feb-2012 At 11:22:06 PM Doug

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On 27/02/2012 kieranl wrote:

>I think all the routes are good but I'm very reluctant to splash stars
>around on my routes. It's very hard to be objective.
>Barbed is also good and i've given it a star in ACA. There's also a piece
>about it appearing in the next Argus that should be out in the next couple
>of days.
>And here's a topo of the wall. The only one that's not really worth doing
>is Clear Conscience.

Nice work with the topo and descriptions, Neil. Maybe the additional routes on that buttress will bring more people to play and your reluctance to blow your own trumpet will be superceded by others' evaluation of the routes.
Re the bolts, it sounds to me that you are leaning towards adding at least the top one. But I reckon as long as you specify the essential cam for the first pocket in the description, that's fine. Fiddly gear is fiddly gear, and if placing it makes the route safe that is what you do. If you blow the onsight because you couldn't get the gear in as efficaciously as you'd have liked, c'est la vie: try again. People have to be able to make their own decisions - and live with them - about whether they ignore a placement and go on, back off, hang around to get in gear and possibly need a rest, etc, etc. Interesting discussion and it's nice to see someone prepared to toss this sort of idea around rather than thinking that they own all options re the way a bit of rock should be viewed just because they happen to be the first person to play around on it.