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General Climbing Discussion

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Failed Sport Route? 27-Feb-2012 At 3:49:14 PM RNM

Message

On 27/02/2012 egosan wrote:
>Maybe the way to frame the question is:
>
>Do I bolt the thing. Many more people might climb it and have just another
>tick at the grade.

or

Many more people might climb it and have the climb of their life on this route, that is surely destined to be a classic.

>Do I leave it mixed. Fewer people will climb it (because you will clearly
>indicate the difficulties protecting the route in your route description)
>and those that do have the front to climb the thing will have something
>to remember it by.

Eg; broken ankles.

That said, I would leave it as is. Another factor might be how wonderful the climbing is. Is it destined to be a classic, or is it a no star hum drum affair?

I didn't think the grade should matter, but I guess if it is a higher grade there is less chance that people will attempt to onsight it if the gear is bad, and those that do will have the experience to make an educated call. If it is a lower grade affair, you will potentially have less experienced bumblies plummeting of it (like me and Sol).

Bolts Carrots? I think that is a factor, as it will scare away some of the hoards.

Finally, all this aside, I still say leave it as it is. I love the Trad ethos at Araps, and there are so many routes I don't see the need for a sport route.