Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Training Plan - Feedback please! 17-Feb-2012 At 1:58:40 PM TobyB

Message

Without going into too much details there are four principles to training:
SPECIFICITY: How and what you do is what you get better at
OVERLOAD: To get stronger you must place increasingly greater loads on your body
ADAPTION: After overload your body compensates and adapts to the new loads (but you gotta rest to let it do this)
REVERSIBILTY: aka 'detraining' stop doing stuff and you get weak again

I think that specificity is really the most important asses your WEAKNESSES and train to improve those in a way that most reflects actually climbing situations in which those weaknesses hold you back.

ENDURANCE: Do lots and lots of climbing, try stay climbing for periods of 30 minutes or longer just below the threshold of getting pumped.
MAX STRENGTH: Overload overload overload, here you are trying to increase your muscle size ie hypertrophy a typical resistance routine would be 3 sets of 6-12 reps at 80% max.
POWER ENDURANCE: Try and get as hideously pumped as you possibly can
POWER: Quality over quantity here you are going for 1-3 reps of your absolute maximum, you should be 100% fresh and at this point feel like you are not training enough

'PERIODIZATION' Read up on Bompa but essentially rotate through what you train so you don't plateau and reduce the risk of injury.

Again asses your weaknesses and train to improve them, ask yourself what are my three best assets and three worst assets as a climber? Ask the same question of training/climbing partners do they match up? What are you training for? Here Jimbos you want to crack the V10 grade, so what have you done already as a platform for that goal? What can I do from this base to then reach that goal? When I have tried hard problems what has held me back, was it a particular aspect of my strength? Which one? Fingers? Lock Off? Core? All that said strength is probably not the issue, this last year I have been lucky enough to climb with the likes of Malcom Matherson, Mayan Golban-Smith, Dave Graham, Simon Young and plenty more who f---ing crush not one of them ever said anything about getting stronger on routes/problems they failed on (sure they used being 'tired' as a lame excuse for not doing some bloody thing or another) but the point is they always talked about moves, movement, body position, SO are you training to improve movement?
I noticed last night and we all do it, but I rarley get the chance to climb in gyms with others but when we are with other climbers we ALWAYS encourage them 'go for it' 'have it' 'allez' whatever you spray. It is of course fantastic to be in an encouraging environment and dig deep for that little extra bit that may help us send, but are you sending or training? Think of another sport where our coaches/teammates would encourage us for just making that hold or desperately slapping something with awful technique. None, they would say that's shit, do it again PROPERLY this time. This is the attitude you should take into your training, you should be aiming yes to get stronger and go harder but not at the expense of good style and efficient movement on rock. So ask yourself and your training partners, how did that look, could I have been more efficient? Where were my feet? Where were my hips? Is this the best way of doing this problem? Why is this way better than that way?
I think your program looks good man, but think about specificity stick with it and you will definitely get stronger provided you focus on aspects that are weak. Make sure you stick with antagonist work personally I do push-ups, military press and external shoulder rotation with a stretch band 3-4 times a week and whatever rehab exercise for niggling injuries at the time usually elbows (you will get this if you keep campusing!) also the importance of a warm-up, cool-down and stretch don't think of them as seperate to your training/climbing they are an essential part of it, at the end of the day if you cool-down and stretch properly you will recover quicker, therefore train more and be stronger sooner. Keep riding your bike. But climbing isn't all in your muscles, the beauty that we all enjoy is the movement more akin to dancing perhaps, so think like a dancer and try get 10/10 on your score card OLE!

-Tobes
tobiasbucek.blogspot.com.au

PS Kez and I will come past STA tomorrow for tickets :P