My two bobs:
I use a fifi, two long daisys and a single, ladder style aider on each. If the pitch is A3+ or harder use 4, two on each daisy. (note no retarded M grade, as then i use two BD fusions and mono-points!)
Then remember what most people seem to forget. Aid climbing is just pulling on gear.
Set a piece, clip the aider biner(not the seperate biner on your daisy) to the piece. Bounce test. Once solid climb to the top of the piece. Dont fifi in half way, stop to scratch urself or any other faffing. Fifi in so u can look for your next piece. Select off harness, high step to place and repeat.
Chris macnamara did some sweet youtube how to's. The general gist is just focus, dont complicate things and keep moving!
Sounded like the fish system was using clove hitchs for belays. DONT use your ropes to build anchors, ever. Just makes it complicated usually! A cordelette allows you to stay organised. As all big wall climbing is a battle against the clusterf#*k gods, and they always win!!
Best bit of aid kit i own is the yates lightweight(still beefy) ladder style aiders! |