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General Climbing Discussion

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Carrot bolts with knotted sling? Please help 7-Jan-2012 At 1:29:19 PM wildRocks

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A friend referred me to this post, and it is interesting to read the discussions with a different range of opinions. Since I am the leader that c--katoo referred to, I wanted to say what I did. I had the Mammut dyneema contact slings tied to the carrot bolts using the slip knot. I tied each sling very tightly and made sure that it stayed inside the plate of the carrot bolt. It would not come out even if you tug/wiggle it. I do this sometimes on (horizontal) piton on run-out route if the ring on the piton is too thin, and by doing this, you can put the sling closer to the rock, which creates less force (torsion) on the piton. I can tell you that I can climb trad comfortably up to grade 20, and slightly higher for sports.

Anyway, Sincerity was a beautiful one pitch slab graded 13 if you do not do the top two tricky moves, which I did. The first was series of a hand-foot match and a stance, and the second was a thin side-pull. These moves were not obvious and it took me a bit of time to figure them out, and this freaked c--katoo a bit and I do appreciate his worries and concerns. For him (a beginner) it was very risky but for me I felt very safe a whole time. I did not put him in danger because this was a one pitch climb and I set up top-rope afterwards to be lowered. I think depending on one's climbing ability, one perceives risks differently, and for me the risk was low on this route. I think c--katoo is a bit overreacted.