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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Carrot bolts with knotted sling? Please help 4-Jan-2012 At 1:29:02 AM muki

Message

some knots can weaken a sling.
in order of preference:
best practice use a bolt plate with a solid gate biner (not a wire gate biner)
use a sling to keep the bracket in close to the rock if the bolt droops/hangs out too far.
use a wire/nut on the bolt if you don't have a bracket.
use a sling if you have nothing better and want to continue up the climb, but don't just hang it on the bolt, like a coat on a coat rack, fix it in a safe manner that will keep it from slipping off without weakening the sling.
A girth hitch, choke, or larks foot,( all the same hitch) will weaken by up to 20 percent.
I just loop it a few turns around the bolt and clip the sling with a quickdraw, tho this is not my first choice.