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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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Australian Climbs with great Mythology |
7-Dec-2011 At 6:26:24 PM |
oldtraddad
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Message |
NSW great routes: Big Glassy all three routes, The original, because of the history, in memory of Chris Dale who died this year, the great stopper pitch three with a big run out on a skyhook runner. Grade 20 no chalk friable edges and you finally get to the peg (god knows how Chris Dale placed it without crapping his pants!) and it comes out. Tattered old rope littering the base 10 years for a repeat and the obvious next chapter some young punk or punket will free it (onsight hopefully)
Fever: Haven't done it but an amazing line by two of the great underrated Aussie climbers of their day, Andrew and Vera. Heat wave, running out of water blah blah .. Great stories of Gilbert Meunier and the blond adonis doing the second ascent where the blond one ended up swinging wildly from an ice hammer pick screaming he was coming of and when Gil tightened the rope the outward force pulled out the old carrorot runner beneath him. He left for Sweden almost immediately after and never climbed outside of a gym afterwards.
And the classic big loose corner. Was it Kieron who lost his front teeth on the first (or early attempt) ascent. Scene of some epics and a couple of frighteningly bold attempts to free it, Zac pulling (snapping?) a bolt and watching barefoot brian onsighting up some serious choss I'd just backed off, 10m of unknown steep ground and a belay that was definately weaker than me!
Oh and Bluff mountain, any route!
And Carne wall, Carnivore, the big loose corner and Macca and Zac's recent play things |
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