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General Climbing Discussion

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dodgy retailers 3-Dec-2011 At 9:35:29 PM dmnz

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On 4/09/2009 anthonyk wrote:
>well these are the manufacturers recommendations on fitting ( http://www.sportiva.com/prod
>cts/sizing.php )
>
>"Remember to factor in stretch. Unlined slip-lasted shoes tend to stretch
>a bit more than lined shoes -- about one full size. Lined shoes stretch
>about a half size." - note Katanas are lined shoes, not unlined.
>
>"While it isn’t a black or white issue, a general rule dictates that soft
>shoes require a tighter fit, two to three sizes smaller than your street
>shoe size." - these are more than 3 sizes under street size
>
>"Remember: a well-fit comfortable shoe will work better than an ill-fitting
>tighter shoe."
>
>its pretty elitist to say that because you like super tight shoes then
>thats how you should recommend them. and its pretty arrogant to say that
>because your shoes stretched right, then anyone else who's shoes didn't
>stretch enough doesn't know what they're talking about. ..have you ever
>considered that the fit you got might actually be larger?
>

Katanas stretch like no other rock shoe I've owned. Street shoe 46/7 and Katanas 42. Most normal rock shoes I'm like a 45 or so.USed them for sport and bouldering. For trad no way, I'd go bigger. Perhaps you should've told him what you wanted to use them for as well as what you wanted. Lot of boulderers I know will pull on their shoes, climb the problem then promptly pull them back off. For them, tighter is better, least that's what they legitimately think so it's fair if they offer that advice to you. Some of them have never lead gear routes and are not interested in it. Although I sympathise with you, I think it just comes down to a communication problem here

You've had your say here (tell all your friends etc) and in the shop so now it's time to vote with your feet (or wallet as it were) and move on. Some seem to agree with you and others don't. Pretty normal here and most have been pretty polite for here too.