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General Climbing Discussion

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tyrolean traverse 20-Nov-2011 At 3:48:39 PM lacto

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from pauls post if you only want a safety factor or 10 % your are crazy 200 to 300 % would be better as failure is you DEAD or MANGLED . the crabs you use are 20+kN but 1.1 kN would be a 10% safety factor so you have a sf of 20+ with a normal crab
Also paul is out in his forces on the rope actually 100 Kg and 10 derees of sag ( and the centre point of the rope will give the largest load of the rope is
100/2*9.81/ sin 10 =2.86 kN in the rope both in tension from the centre point and hence will load each anchor point with 2.86 Kn in the direction of the rope . Putting weight on an ascender wont increase the loading at all as the weight that goes on the ascender is removed from the load you have from your harness.
Can't emphasise enough that large safety margins are sensible and 2 ropes or more even more sensible . Be absolutely sure within yourself that your setup is good before you launch