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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
tyrolean traverse 20-Nov-2011 At 12:43:20 PM Paul
Message
On 20/11/2011 cjradloff76 wrote:
>i got it up and im on it. my sister took those pictures for me.
>
> > > > >
>ok it was static rope and it has been a lot of fun.
>
>ive moved it from the patio to the tree on the other side of my yard.
>im pulling it down later on.
>the trampoline was only put there in case it did fail. well i didnt.
>AND IM NO TROLL!
>
>this was the plan to traverse this
> >height=480>
>at a later date. the further out i go the more rope i need but im not
>taking the risk. im going to do somemore research and study my notes more.
>ill need to do somemore practice runs before i do this. im not trying to
>get myself killed. i know about safety and i checked my anchors 12 times
>before i loaded the rope.
>im still in training for my course in abseiling on the 3/12.
>it was only up for testing.
>and it worked as you can see.
>
>
>

some things to consider

1) using a tandem pully will prevent the cheeks of the pulley binding and creating unnecessary friction on the rope.
2) Unless you are using crazy thick rope like 13mm it would be a very good idea to double the rope and use two pullies.
3) have ascenders of some way to get back up the other sode of the rope, the further across you get the steeper angle will get, consider the force the ascenders will put on the rope.

lets think about angles and forces in the system when using a single rope.
say you decide you want to have a 10% safe working load on your system, to allow for things like if the system is shock loaded, sharp edges, existing uv wear and abrasive wear on the rope. Say your rope is Blue Water 11mm which is about 30kn in strength, you tie a figure 8 in the end, which weakens the rope by about 30% (varies according to rope construction and diameter) so you are now down to 21kn. You have your rope tensioned so it creates an angle of 170 degrees when your weight is on it, if you weigh 100 kg then you will be applying a force of 5.725kn to each anchor or 11.45kn to your rope. so your weight could be loading your rope to 54% of the breaking strain of the system asuming your repe is new and in excelent condition (not second hnd off ebay). So by using two ropes and reducing the angle you can make things safer.

4) if you are having the ropes tensioned super tight creating stupidly big angles build a fuse into the system which will slip before you create a force which could create failure, e.g. few fully loaded whale tales riged inline for this purpose.

5) From your photos either your pants are super high or your harness is sitting on your hips and not your waist, an inpropper fitted harness could mean that you fall out of your harness if you flip upside down.

6) gravity load your karabiners, the vibration of a pulley on a rope can cause gates to become undone.

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