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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Seating trad gear vs making your partner happy 17-Nov-2011 At 4:16:07 PM vwills

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Your nuts on Honeycomb through the crux were pretty worthless....and I was very happy they fell out with a flick of the rope.

My opinion is that the leader is taking the risk and are sometimes desperate and likely to overcam a cam or weld in a nut. And if fallen on who cares how wedged in it is- as long as it held. I've done it too and its understandable. However, having seconded a lot of people, one person stands out as really overcamming cams, but I only whinged about the one right at the start of Golden Echo which took about 5 minutes to extricate and the overcamming of this in a good pod seemed unnecessary. My understanding is there is an optimal range and that overcamming them turns them into a passive piece of protection.

Neil whinged more about my HB quad cams than I did about his overcammed BDs.

My pet hates are actually people with long reach that place cams and wires out of reach when other options are available,
and people that place a cam then push the whole unit in so the trigger is sitting well inside the crack making bloody fingers likley trying to get to release it.

But generally its just the seconders lot to put up and shut up which is probably why I prefer to lead :)