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Topic Date User

Sport grades 'higher' than trad? 6-Nov-2011 At 11:45:12 AM MrsM10iswhereitsat.

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On 4/11/2011 Mr jezza wrote:
>On average (taken over thousands of climbers), shouldn't it be true
>that most people climb the same on sport and trad, because the grading
>system takes into account the differences between sport and trad? Or is
>it just that my friends and I need to harden up?

You need to harden up dearie.
Mz Wendy makes a fair point, hard sport is less protectable on natural features than hard trad, so bolts are used. The mindset that goes with bolts is that they are safe?

For the average routes I climb, I find that grade for grade, the sport routes are graded soft, ie those who graded them basically did so on difficulty of moves alone, so it is little wonder that if you did the same climb as purely trad then it would be harder when all the other things that the Mr Ewbank Grading System involves, are taken into consideration as well.
This leads me to believe that the new generation sport climbers need to climb more trad, in order to more accurately grade their sport creations.