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Sport grades 'higher' than trad? 4-Nov-2011 At 1:17:26 PM ..::- Chris -::..

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On 4/11/2011 jezza wrote:
>Yeah that plays into the theory I've come up with over the years. The
>theory is that the trad climbs I'm doing were graded by people who had
>plenty of experience placing gear. And falling on it too. Unlike me,
>they weren't molly coddled by years of gym and sport climbing (ie they
>had become experts in placing gear and graded accordingly). The same is
>true for most of my friends - possibly we could all improve placing gear
>quickly and appropriately. It's mostly the guys that have been climbing
>for many years (gfdonc) that climb the same on trad and sport. At least
>that's my theory.

Yeah most climbers... hmmm actually all climbers i know there is usually around 2+ grade's between their best trad and best sport. For me personally there is around 3-4 grades different (pure trad to Sport i.e not mixed) but I really don't get into pre-inspection or pre-placement (more out of lazyness than ethics ;-) ) and if i did I could probably lift my "trad" grades up a little as all my energy would be focused on the pure moves rather than clouding my thoughts with gear and wasting valuable cranking juice with gear placement......If indeed you can still call it trad after pre inspection pre placement but thats another thread for another day.......

I'm always blown away / impressed on every level seeing an true onsight trad leader heading out at his limit weather it be grade 18 or 28.....

Bloody awesome that gfdonc is the same on both. Kudos!