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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Sport grades 'higher' than trad? 4-Nov-2011 At 11:12:04 AM jezza

Message

'The Grading system takes into account the "gear available", "exposure" and difficulty of moves.

It does not take into account how quick and good you are placing gear.'

Yeah that plays into the theory I've come up with over the years. The theory is that the trad climbs I'm doing were graded by people who had plenty of experience placing gear. And falling on it too. Unlike me, they weren't molly coddled by years of gym and sport climbing (ie they had become experts in placing gear and graded accordingly). The same is true for most of my friends - possibly we could all improve placing gear quickly and appropriately. It's mostly the guys that have been climbing for many years (gfdonc) that climb the same on trad and sport. At least that's my theory.