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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Sport grades 'higher' than trad? 4-Nov-2011 At 11:01:56 AM ..::- Chris -::..

Message

The Grading system takes into account the "gear available", "exposure" and difficulty of moves.

It does not take into account how quick and good you are placing gear.

If you take 3 tries to find the right nut size on every piece on a climb, you are increasing the energy required to complete climb.

Also allot of people (myself included) have had some experience in their climbing life with being pumped silly and either placing shit gear or rushing gear placement or just being too pumped to place gear....

I had a bad experience on Blimp, around 12 years ago as a much less experienced climber, i took way way too long placing gear, trying to see in the crack eventually i found myself near the top unable to even let go to shake out with not much confidence in my last few pieces due to my pump and rushing... I was extremely scared and had time to think of my death, luckily the gear held (1st piece popped)

Had I either been quicker at findding the right gear.
Or had it of been a sport climb I would have ticked it on that day.

The very next day after failing on Blimp I ticked my first Grade 25 sport route...