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General Climbing Discussion

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Mismatched belay 26-Oct-2011 At 3:15:17 PM ..::- Chris -::..

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I'm 83kg currently and I find that problem of my belay partner (usually the mrs) being way too lite despite me trying hard to fatten her up...; )

god help me if i was 110... apart from the obvious discomfort to the belayer i'd also be questioning whether those last 3 rp's i placed will hold 110kg + downforce....

I try to sling to something, even if it means grabbing an extra rope or using the other end and going back further until i could find something.

If the route has absolutely no gound protection and I have a belay'er less than 20kg and i'm nervous about the climb run out or whatever then I would perhaps pick a different route, or call someone of similar weight to belay me ;-)

My first attempt at kachoong i was probably 95+kg at the time with a skinny ass vegetarian hippy belaying me ; p I fell from over the lip, ripped the ground belay out and dragged my mate round the corner to (at the time) the piton.....

I've caused stitches when my belayer was dragged up but his legs got caught under a boulder on the way up.

I've landed on my belayer doing enter sandman at bunderleer when i had my entire arm around a stalic mite type rock looking for a bit of protection before the first bolt, hold snapped off clean and i only had one hand on the wall at the time so off i went... fell back landed on my belayer and we both went flying down the hill behind it tangled in rope....

Basically get a bigger belay partner for "those" type of routes.....