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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Nalle Hukkataival bouldering in the Grampians 30-Sep-2011 At 12:59:39 PM Dave J
Message
On 30/09/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>On 30/09/2011 rowan wrote:
>>Who really cares though. So they may have done a couple of easy problems
>>the same. They had the vision to go find and do new stuff and develop
>areas.
>>That's awesome.
>
>You do realize that Dave Jones put up a lot of V10+ stuff in the Grampians
>don't you? Not exactly easy for mere mortals. In the 90s that area was
>quite well known for its bouldering. I guess what bugged me about their
>trip report is that they are implying that they have 'discovered' this
>new area - but the facts are that boulderers have been doing stuff there
>for 20 years. They seemed to have done zero research - any local would
>know the area and many of the problems. Just because they are not featured
>in a glossy guide doesn't mean they haven't been done before.

Ive been pretty excited about those guys putting up a bunch of new stuff in the gramps. I imagine that most of the stuff I ever did around there would be in his "there is a fair bit of easier stuff around for people who might be interested in that category"

To be honest it doesn't take a lot of vision to find new bouldering in the grampians. But it does take a fair bit of talent to get up some of the problems it sounds like they've established in the last few weeks. A mix of long standing projects and entirely new stuff.

I find it more disturbing that for the last decade or so a lot of good local climbers go out to the gramps and try and repeat all the stuff that Klem, Tony and co put up on their trip and now those climbers will be heading do to try and repeat the stuff in the new buandik boulders. Wandering around in an unknown area unearthing new problems is loads of fun. Finding some thing you dont know if its even possible or not and then working out a way to climb it. You dont get that when you turn up with a guide and everything is all ticked up and graded. I dont understand why some people need a list of names and numbers before they can get excited about bouldering in some spot.

Actually the biggest problem I see with this article is that we're likely to see a massive influx of yanks here in the next few years coming out to try and repeat all this stuff. But otherwise, Hats off to Nalle and Dave Graham getting out there and digging around and unearthing some great looking problems.

There are 46 replies to this topic.

 

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