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Bolting in the Warrumbungles 7-Jun-2011 At 2:05:27 PM MichaelF

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On 7/06/2011 gsharrock2007 wrote:

>.....While I thank and applaud Mike, Neil (and others) for replacing our anchors,
>I don't believe we do ourselves any favors by placing unnecessary new bolts
>in the Warrumbungle National park.

>First the Warrumbungle National Park is on the National Heritage list
>and I don't believe we do much for our image as custodians of the vertical
>environment by bolting in parks with World or National Heritage status,.....

>Second the park management plan has very specific requirements with respect
>to rock climbing: ......
>•Rock climbing, abseiling and other recreational activities will continue
>to be prohibited on the Breadknife, Square Top Mountain and Chalkers Mountain.
>These activities may be prohibited or restricted in other areas if necessary
>for safety or environmental reasons.
>•The marking of climbs and the bolting of new climbing routes will not
>be permitted.
>•The replacement of existing bolts and abseil anchors will only be permitted
>on public safety grounds.
>•Use of portable generators will not be permitted in the park.

>I think the requests in the plan are quite reasonable and surely if we
>wish to continue accessing the park a good start would be sicking to the
>plan!
>
>My third argument is entirely personal and relates to climbing style,
>and is therefore a matter of "taste" as Mike says. To me the Warrumbungles
>and South West Tasmania are two special places in Australia where you get
>an "alpine" experience, and a true sense of wilderness. For this reason
>I would prefer to see no new bolting, especially bolting that is unnecessary
>on classic routes like Cornerstone ....

>On the matter of the wishes of the first ascensionist, I think the management
>plan and associated environmental requirements should always override rock
>climbing history, ethical debates and personal views.
>
>For all of the above reasons I have no problem with the removal of the
>new bolts or any others that have been placed in recent times, and would
>ask that no more new climbs are bolted.

gsharrock I agree with your sentiments 100%. Lets leave these places for future generations of climbers looking for trad adventure climbing in a wilderness setting (I would add Kaputar to the list for NSW).