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General Climbing Discussion

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Why S.E.X. might kill you 6-Jun-2011 At 9:43:25 PM Winston Smith

Message

After a delightful BJ (Barrenjoey) session with JB (John Shaw) on Saturday I wanted to warn you all about the potential death block on Super Exciting Xylophone (S.E.X.).

A grade 21 wall that soon gives way to an absorbing grade 15 trad line up a pinnacle, the route is a little-climbed BJ gem.

The transition between the 21 crimpy wall bit and the 15 trad bit is eased by a huge horn of rock on a jutting block that provides relief after the overhang.

Leading it I felt secure, although it gve me a nasty rash because it's rather rough on the skin.

Then JB, after seconding it, mentioned how he'd pulled it out six inches while testing it.

In the picture you can see the block in question, heavily chalked so that it stands out.

An estimated 70kg, it would make a nasty lead fall nastier.

So, as the final word in a note replete with intended and unintended double entendres, be safe on S.E.X.