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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Bolting in the Warrumbungles 2-Jun-2011 At 3:02:14 PM Winston Smith
On 31/05/2011 king335 wrote:
>i'd just like to inform all you lovely folk that those hideous steel monstrosities
>that appeared on cornerstone rib direct have since been removed.
>also i'd like to confirm that there are bolts at the first belay of Lieben.
>unfortunatley these rather unpleasant beasts still remain. The removal
>of these rather grotesque fixtures will be carried out sometime over the
>next two months.
>please note:
> Any additional bolts added to existing climbs will be removed (Adding
>is somewhat different to replacing)
>Also it is considered bad ethic to rap bolt a new climb in the bungles.
>(yes there is still a small group of people who regulary climb in the bungles
>and are putting up new routes, ground up on gear)
>If you wish to bolt a new line, grow some balls and do it on lead.
>The reason for this is to reduce the likelihood that over bolting will
>occur. Over bolted routes may end up having bolts removed depending on
>what gear is available and the run out taken. (bolts place near natural
>protection or closer then 5m apart will likley be considered overbolted
>unless a ground fall or factor 2 is likley)
>pitons are considered the lesser of two evils. if you place a pin leave
>it behind as removal will damage the rock and others will likely not be
>climbing with a rack of pins and a hammer..
>If you dont like this, stay in the blue mountains and stop wasting your
>and my time.
Andrew, what a performance.

By your unilateral actions you’re claiming the climbing ethical high ground over the likes of Mike Law, Bryden Allen, Kevin Westren and John Croker – all of whom explicitly or implicitly – agreed with adding bolts to Cornerstone Rib and Lieben.

In the case of Kevin and Bryden they were the ones who between them actually put up the routes in question. They have the right to authorise the adding of bolts – and let’s not forget they’re belay stations – to their own routes. (Kevin has added to this thread and from his lack of censure it seems reasonable to conclude that he doesn’t object to the additions).

As for your quip “ If you don’t (sic) like this, stay in the blue mountains and stop wasting your (sic) and my time” maybe you need to climb more trad in the Blueys before, seemingly, dismissing them.

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