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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Bolting in the Warrumbungles 1-Jun-2011 At 3:27:51 PM Linze

Message

On 31/05/2011 king335 wrote:
>i'd just like to inform all you lovely folk that those hideous steel monstrosities
>that appeared on cornerstone rib direct have since been removed.
>also i'd like to confirm that there are bolts at the first belay of Lieben.
>unfortunatley these rather unpleasant beasts still remain. The removal
>of these rather grotesque fixtures will be carried out sometime over the
>next two months.
>
>please note:
> Any additional bolts added to existing climbs will be removed (Adding
>is somewhat different to replacing)
>Also it is considered bad ethic to rap bolt a new climb in the bungles.
>(yes there is still a small group of people who regulary climb in the bungles
>and are putting up new routes, ground up on gear)
>If you wish to bolt a new line, grow some balls and do it on lead.
>The reason for this is to reduce the likelihood that over bolting will
>occur. Over bolted routes may end up having bolts removed depending on
>what gear is available and the run out taken. (bolts place near natural
>protection or closer then 5m apart will likley be considered overbolted
>unless a ground fall or factor 2 is likley)

yikes! this has put things into perspective, glad this dude isnt patrolling shipley on a sunday... i take it all back sheriff, your policing now seems firm but fair!

>pitons are considered the lesser of two evils. if you place a pin leave
>it behind as removal will damage the rock and others will likely not be
>climbing with a rack of pins and a hammer..

as someone who rarely does anything but clips bolts, i dont really get this??. fixed metal gear seems like fixed metal gear to me.. by all means put fixed gear in the right place, but you may as well use the best technology availiable..? is it a just a nostalgia thing??