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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Bolting in the Warrumbungles 16-May-2011 At 11:02:42 PM jrc
1. Judging from the great pile of slings on the old piton on Cornerstone, it would appear that retreat from this point is a fairly common occurrence. So it's probably quite handy to have an abseil anchor of some substance at this point. Its location is not particularly useful as a belay; the crux belay for example is far better accomplished by wrapping the rope around the rocky bollard (as we did) at the start of the pitch.
2. No bolts were placed on Lieben by our party.
3. A bolt anchor was placed at the top of a new 50m route (Zombie Love, 20) which is on the wall below the second pitch of Lieben. The chimney at the top of ZL leads up to the second pitch of Lieben, so you could do ZL as a (fairly) direct start to Lieben. Zombie Love has some bolts on it in the crux section; the lower part is protectable with nuts & cams.
4. FOTP via the guidebook route involves the abseil. I had thought Steve (&Joe G) had put a bolt at the abseil point in 2007 but we couldn't find it. Mike's supersling is a pretty good alternative, though a proper rap station would be a lot nicer to look at from below and a whole lot more durable. Feel free to reuse the 15 year old carabiner (stamped JC) that Richard left on this sling. Feel free to back it up, too! If you don't like it collect it and please give it back to me.
5. I have done FOTP a few times by climbing round the buttress as NM mentions, if you get it'right' it is about grade 18 for a move or 2. Fairly well protected. Means you dont have to mess about abseiling.

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