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General Climbing Discussion

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Bolting at Piddo 12-May-2011 At 7:13:33 PM another dave

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It took me 5 pages before I worked out what this is about and I'm still not sure.

On 12/05/2011 Wendy wrote:
>I'm not saying that everyone should climb grade 18 trad Simey! I'm saying
>if they can't climb grade 18 sport, which is about the bottom end of what
>is available,

Yeah climbing grade 18+ is where sport climbing begins in the bluies and I do kinda think the vast majority of people who climb below that grade (unless held back by age, medical conditions, etc) ie a uni student, should be able to attempt to lead at that grade, what stops them - fear of falling in my experience. Gotta learn that bit first.
However if you enjoy sub 18 on sport screw everybody else's opinions.

>This desire that there should be easy sport routes, as if somehow the
>world has a right to bolted routes at whatever grade they are climbing
>is what I am questioning.

Why not if somebody is kind enough to bolt it? But if nobody bolts at that grade then sucked in.

Kinda surprises me no experienced bolter has offered to those that can't bolt "if you see a line you like I will bolt it for you if you pay for the bolts and the glue and you get the first ascent"

My mate bolted the route this massive thread is about. It was one of his first. Yes its in shit rock but it is also quite juggy. Its also at piddo so....
We have a mate who is now over 70 and due to a few health problems he can no longer climb at grade 20+ hes now stuck below 18 and even then he usually pulls on a draw or two. These two have now put up 6+ new sport routes around (yes there own funds) specifically for there enjoyment and for anybody else who wants a shot.
I hope nobody here expects them to stop......