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Weribee info


phil_nev

30-Oct-2002
2:35:40 PM

Joe, i gave veni vidi vici a good wrap up, thats the one u liked. It'e the ones further right i spoke badly about.....


phil_nev

30-Oct-2002
7:39:00 PM

Mike, on the page, the redex pic on the left is steve, the same guy on slave girl.
phil


Mike

31-Oct-2002
9:06:32 AM

> the redex pic on the left is steve

I wondered about that. Thanks heaps for the Werribee notes and photos. Given enough time and contributors it might be possible to have notes and shots from every Victorian crag, even the tiny and distant ones. Then people could scope out their next climbing trip from here, before investing in the appropriate guide book, get additional beta on recommended routes, cruxes, tips on access, perhaps get inspired by the photos and so on. It's a dream, but I think it's doable, and certainly fun trying!


phil_nev

31-Oct-2002
12:35:14 PM

Anything i can do to help bud. That would be awesome, a detailed webpage of beta ann all the vic crags. Recomended routes, it will take time, but i'm sure it can be done.


phil_nev

4-Nov-2002
4:31:32 PM

Mike now it sayss above, steve leading for the redex photos. Steve on left, phil on right........ :) ok.
Also, went out to weribee yesterday, jumped on three of the described routes, will send you the pics soon.... Got some awesome pics of pheadron on abseil....

Dalai

19-Nov-2002
4:24:18 PM

Phil's comments are a fair appraisal of Werribee. A nice local crag. Just a problem if busy, as a lot of people who don't know what they're doing seem to end up there.
Nero on the Rampage - whether a hold now broken or not has always been alot harder than graded.
Redex - Very nice climb. Used to be 23, with less bolts including at the start. Don't know how it got harder carrying less gear and not as scary across the traverse.
Holiday sidewinder - After the initial bouldery start eases to a pleasant outing.
Pocko wall 23 - just right of Phaedron is worthwhile.


phil_nev

19-Nov-2002
5:59:27 PM

Thansk Dalai, what did you think of the rest of the article, reasonably acurate or not? Ive been looking at Nero for a while, looks sweet as, but damm hard.
With reagrd to redex, the grade is debateable. I have seen 3 weribee guides, 2 say 24, one says 23.... So i went with the majority. Compared to some other 23's ive done i reckon it's harder, for example, barbere streisand, i think it's deffiitly harder than that.

Help me out with pocko wall, thers too many routes on that small section, theres another called the throne, i cant figure which is which. Does pocko wall have the carrots and a manky pittion????

After exams im keen to get on holiday sidewinder, looks like the climbing is in an awesome positionHoliday sidewinder.

I will be exploring the north side climbs soon, shoot on sight (*** 19) and aresting moments (**21) look to be worth investigating.


phil_nev

19-Nov-2002
6:51:23 PM

Dalai, your martin lama, yes???
I like fuel the fire at weribee, really sweet route. Jeez, lucky i didnt say it was shit or something :)...
do you know Wayne Jensen? Ive climbed with him a bit, he spoke of you as though you knew each other???
Phil

Dalai

19-Nov-2002
8:17:55 PM

Hi Phil,

yes one and the same. Your write up was pretty accurate, a good read.

In regards about route quality, I am thick skinned ( just look at the quality descriptions given to the other two routes I did out there - although Leavitation was written up as a joke but taken far too seriously), but it was good to see you enjoyed it. I shouldn't have used RP fixed hangers on Fuel the Fire. The second hanger had quite a good droop.

Pocko wall is the carrots and dodgy pin offering a quieter alternative to climbing around in the main area.

I do know Wayne. We climbed a little together after meeting through a mutual climbing friend. Now there was someone who was really strong! He had a training regime which would put most people to shame. You should ask him one day about it. Say hi to him for me.

Holiday sidewinder does offer great positions up the main arete on the cliff once you get started.

Barbara used to be 22. So Redex appeared right at 23. Grades though are so subjective, so the only thing that really matters is that it's a stellar route.

The north side routes do sound good, but be careful as climbing on that side is above the main tourist path, and therefore the reason climbing there was banned.

Cheers Martin


phil_nev

19-Nov-2002
10:49:48 PM

Thanks for the reply,
Yeah, leavitation seemed a bit dodgy. What do you mean by this?
"I shouldn't have used RP fixed hangers on Fuel the Fire. The second hanger had quite a good droop."
You lost me with this.....
Pocko wall looks realy fun.
Wayne is still strong. Damm S trong. When we first climed together, he hadnt been outdoors in ages, and hadnt been to the gym for a while either, then he strolled up Redex... Awesome to watch. Really nice guy too. I will have to ask him about his training.
I tell you what, these mikl routes are so confusing, anal crank 20???? He was a very confused man.

I will probably check out the north side on a weekday, so there will be a minimal amount of tourists, the helmet will be on, i assure you.

Thnaks again for the feedback...
phil


nmonteith

20-Nov-2002
9:09:44 AM

RP branded fixed hangers are a bit thinner than Fixe or AME brands. Thus, when fallen on many times they tend to bend and warp to a flat shape. Not good.

Mike Law is an Australian climbing instution. His crap bolts, bad grades and wierd climbs litter all Australian crags.

Dalai

20-Nov-2002
10:31:37 AM

Ditto Neil's comment on RP hangers. I bought them cheap at the Araps shop, but have always used AME hangers since.

The name Leavitation ie. Leave It ation.

Mike Law bolts did tend to have a reputation. When we replaced the original bolts on Redex, a couple were carrots held in by wedging a small piece of climbing webbing tape with the bolt in the hole to hold it in. Amazing they didn't fall out long before.


HM33

20-Nov-2002
10:40:42 AM

you should see the routes mike doing up in the blueys. they are way cool. multi pitch sport routes in the grose valley. upto 300m long. great fun!
steve

Dalai

20-Nov-2002
11:17:42 AM

Mike has always had an eye for a good line, it's just the weird fixed bits he has left along the way which can be quite amusing to say the least.
His glue- ins he places now are much safer!


HM33

20-Nov-2002
11:30:22 AM

agreed!
steve


nmonteith

20-Nov-2002
11:45:19 AM

I reckon he has 'aquired' a single bolt and hanger of every brand and type in the world. Then, when he bolts a route he closes his eyes, takes a lucky dip in a vast bin containing all his bolting stuff, and places the randomly chosen bolt.


phil_nev

20-Nov-2002
7:48:01 PM

Gota love the mikl route at the you yangs 'pain and freequency', originally graded 23, it now goes at 28.....

Martin, did you place the bolts next to the crack on redex? If so, why did you do it?
Phil

Dalai

21-Nov-2002
8:09:59 AM

Phil, we definitely DIDN'T bolt the crack at the top. We only replaced those that were originally there.
I too was shocked when I heard about the retro bolting of that climb. Easy crack, brilliant gear at the top. The traverse at the bottom also has an extra bolt I believe, therefore minimising the potential pendulum into the corner which had you holding on just that little bit harder.


phil_nev

21-Nov-2002
1:08:01 PM

Kewl, i just dont understand why someone did that... the crack cams, nuts and samll hexes. The bolt at the bottom was needed, the pendulum fall still physces me out a bit.....

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