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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Poll Option Votes Graph
Have you ever lost a cam by fixing it enroute? 0
 
(If so, post the brand of it below!) 0
 
Have you ever successfully retrieved a fixed cam? 2
20% 
(If so, post the brand of it below!) 0
 
Have U tried 2retrieve afixed cam unsuccessfully? 3
30% 
Do you think fixed cams are common? - yes 0
 
Do you think fixed cams are common? - no 4
40% 
Bah humbug, polls are stupid, so who cares anyway? 1
10% 

Author
End of era: no more stuck cams - take 2.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
4-Feb-2020
2:15:42 PM
On another thread on 3 Feb 2020 pi wrote:
> However, for a relatively uncommon cam they (Omega Pacific) have made up for more than their fair share of fixed cams Iíve found. I donít recall any of these being retrieved, they were well stuck.

Here you go Chloe; ... teasing a bit more life out of piís thread to slake your intrigue factor!

phillipivan
4-Feb-2020
3:21:15 PM
Slow news day Rod?
johnpitcairn
5-Feb-2020
4:52:55 AM
Need to be able to vote for more than one category ...

At the Mt Eden Quarry long side, there is a classic "beginner's" route, Silver Airman, 16. A few years back, we discovered a brand new link cam fixed in the wrong crack (there's good nuts in the thin middle crack, left is for finger locks).

Presumably mummy had bought their trad-curious birthday child the most expensive cam available, they'd jumped on a bit of a classic urban sandbag, shat themselves and plugged in a panic piece, shoving it in to fully overcammed. No way it was coming out. We couldn't get anyone to own up to it.

It sat there fixed for around six months, with other idiots clipping it and various attempts to get it out, until somebody got concerned enough to cut the sling off it. Another month or so went by. I went up with assorted tools and had a serious go at extracting it. Nope. Broke it a bit in the process.

Finally I took a big f'in hammer and a cold chisel up and smashed the damn thing as far into the crack as I could. It's still there as far as I know. The crag is currently closed.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5-Feb-2020
11:29:18 AM
Havenít ever lost a cam by fixing or otherwise.
Have successfully retrieved fixed cams several times as booty. Mostly HB quadcams.
Have successfully retrieved fixed cams a couple of times belonging to climbing mates to return to them.
Have once successfully retrieved one of my own cams that became fixed by my inexperienced second at the time trying to retrieve it and jamming it!

None of them were Omega Pacific, and none of the irretrievable fixed cams that Iíve climbed past over the years (relatively uncommon in my experience), were that brand either.

The first time I ever came across a fixed cam was on the East Face Route of Mt Crookneck in Qld in about 1990 - unlawful to climb there now...
There were two in close proximity on the thin traverse; one was broken off at its head, and the other (a flexible BD friend), was beginning to rust due length of time it had been there.
I couldnít believe the $ value that had been left behind and unsuccessfully tried to retrieve it.

ajfclark
5-Feb-2020
12:58:29 PM
Ask monty about exploding them.
martym
9-Feb-2020
8:51:24 PM
I lost a green link cam between Tiger Wall and the Pines campground. I spent two days back and forth searching for it. I most likely mis-clipped it while packing up & it dropped off my harness in the grass somewhere...

Still gutted 10 years later :,(

IdratherbeclimbingM9
12-Feb-2020
7:18:56 AM
On 5-Feb-2020 ajfclark wrote:
>Ask monty about exploding them.

I think that topic has come up several times already on this site over the years...
;-)

The long and short of it from memory is that the flexible stem cam was poorly placed (too shallow a placement made too hastily), and too much faith was placed on the term Ďflexibleí. The subsequent fall on it caused the flexible stem to snap off at its head due that being the leverage spot rather than somewhere along its cable as it was designed for.

ajfclark
12-Feb-2020
8:48:39 AM
No, he exploded the lobes. If there's any torque on the lobes from a bump in the placement interacting with the extended part of the lobe they disintegrate.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
13-Feb-2020
6:55:32 PM
On 12-Feb-2020 ajfclark wrote:
>No, he exploded the lobes. If there's any torque on the lobes from a bump
>in the placement interacting with the extended part of the lobe they disintegrate.

Ah ha; you are right.

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=6&MessageID=11747&Replies=16

... what I was referring to was the last post on that thread re the WC flexible Friend, which is likely itís own thread elsewhere here.

Chloe
20-Feb-2020
5:44:07 AM
Thank you M9.
Now that link was not only interesting but outright scary. I canít believe nmonteith still thinks that theyíre good after those experiences.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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