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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Making static rope anchor with more than 2 points
Maxi565
21-Jan-2020
11:56:28 AM
Have not been climbing for long but keen to learn, have been on a week trip to Arapiles with a school club and a day out at buffalo both top roping and one day multi pitch seconding. Have been taught how to equalise a two point static rope top rop anchor but wondering how to build a static line anchor with more than two points using natural features
TimP
21-Jan-2020
12:53:11 PM
A bit here on 3 point anchors to one master point: http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Cordelette.htm
Lots of solutions, also think of joining 2 of the 3 points (sling+carabiner or figure 8 bunny-ears knot) to create a single point, then use that single point with the 3rd point. Look up the quad anchor, that lends itself to 3 points nicely.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
22-Jan-2020
11:48:02 PM
Three pieces of well placed trad-gear is mandatory for having some redundancy in most traditional anchors, and is certainly the mantra that I adhere too.
Four or more isnít unusual, especially in trad mutipitch.
In multiipitch one of those three (or more), pieces needs to cater for upward loading.

There are a few good (and cheap), books around on the subject.
Here is one example that has been reviewed on this Site.

http://www.chockstone.org/Media/Review.asp?Action=Show&BookID=19

Top tip:
An anchor that incorporates a sliding-X will often allow more than one climb to be top-roped off the same setup (not at the same time!), without having to rebuild another anchor...
... or if the desired new activity is close but too far offline to the side, and so is skewing the original anchor into loading only one or two pieces of protection (of the original three), it can have an additional equalised piece added closer to the intended line, as a directional component with minimal fuss to cater for the new angle.

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