Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Woody Advice Canberra
Olbert
23-Sep-2019
5:57:36 AM
I'm about to have my first child in January and I'm looking to build a woody to fight the good fight of keeping strong. I really want to build a Moonboard because I won't have to make the routes up myself. Having set routes will be much more motivating for me.

Unfortunately, I only have 2.5m of vertical space in my garage. The way I see it. I have three options:

1. Some sort of modified Moonboard where the spacing is reduced and maybe the top row is gone.

2. Build it outside. Hack the Canberra heat and cold.

3. Build a regular woody in my garage.

4. Give up - I'm never gonna stay strong with a child. Buy a set of hexes and look forward to 10 yearly trips of bumbling at Araps.

I have considered taking off the plasterboard and knocking out a roof truss but common sense has ruled that out.

Does anybody have any experience or tips?
johnpitcairn
23-Sep-2019
6:02:42 AM
Just a thought ... could you excavate a bit?

Duang Daunk
23-Sep-2019
6:55:08 AM
On 23-Sep-2019 Olbert wrote:
>I'm about to have my first child in January and I'm looking to build a
>woody to fight the good fight of keeping strong. I really want to build
>a Moonboard because I won't have to make the routes up myself. Having set
>routes will be much more motivating for me.
>
>Unfortunately, I only have 2.5m of vertical space in my garage. The way
>I see it. I have three options:
>
>1. Some sort of modified Moonboard where the spacing is reduced and maybe
>the top row is gone.
>
>2. Build it outside. Hack the Canberra heat and cold.
>
>3. Build a regular woody in my garage.
>
>4. Give up - I'm never gonna stay strong with a child. Buy a set of hexes
>and look forward to 10 yearly trips of bumbling at Araps.
>
>I have considered taking off the plasterboard and knocking out a roof
>truss but common sense has ruled that out.
>
>Does anybody have any experience or tips?

Yeah bro. Instead of pulling on plastic go pulling out bolts instead. I heard that thereís more than enough to keep you fit in the Grampians just for starters - and itíll be less dramatic than decommissioning your house given the family is expanding.
One Day Hero
23-Sep-2019
8:16:44 AM
I've always gone for option 2 because I got into climbing to spend time outside, and skulking in dark cramped cellars breathing chalk and b.o sucks.

Winter nights on outdoor Canberra woodys are brutal, but it's glorious for 9 months of the year. I faced my walls north-westish, trained arvo-evening in spring and autumn, morning or night in summer, and try for lunchtime sessions in winter (given that you won't be climbing on rock anymore, this should be easy to organise).

gordoste
24-Sep-2019
2:17:55 PM
I built a moonboard in my garage which had a similar challenge, but I think my measurement was 2.75m. I ended up making the footboard shorter, cutting a hole in the ceiling to remove the plaster, and having the board finish a couple of inches above the bottom of the roof beams (which meant i needed to cut slots in the board for the roof beam to pass through). The top row is essential on the moonboard since it's where all the finishing holds are - don't remove it.
It's pretty awesome to have a moonboard in my garage, but the sit-starts are heinous due to less room, and one of the holds in my top row cannot be used due to the beam's location - but I just moved the hold one grid position to the side.
If your roof beams are laid out favourably, you could actually extend the board a fair way up into the ceiling.
I can send some pictures of mine if you like - email me.
If you really only have 2.5m, I think you're going to struggle.
Olbert
24-Sep-2019
6:50:22 PM
I did look into the roof space - I was hoping my garage was made of a series of simple trusses. Unfortunately, the roof has a bunch of diagonals and cross beams and other shit because of how the whole roof structure of the house is.
Cam McKenzie
25-Sep-2019
5:51:47 AM
Out of interest, what was the cost to build the moon board including holds?

I like the idea, but it seemed like quite an expensive prospect.
Tuttle
29-Sep-2019
7:27:18 AM
Hi Olbert,
I'd go with option 3.
I build Moon Boards, tension boards, woodies etc.
To spend the money and not have the complete 'to scale unit' would probably lead to some buyers remorse.
I've just done a house reno and was only able to stretch the ceiling to around 2.7 - so I'm going the woody option.
There are plenty of games/ options that should keep you busy until your super strong, explode or retire owing to lack of sleep.

Good luck with the impending bundle of Joy
Cam McKenzie
30-Sep-2019
5:48:57 AM
hey Tuttle,
What's the normal cost for setting up a tension board with a full set of holds? The board itself doesn't seem like it would be outrageously expensive, but the holds themselves seem to be around $7k for a full set?

How do the moon board holds compare price wise? I haven't seem to be able to find a local distributor via google, and I presume shipping from the UK is not cheap.
cheers

gordoste
30-Sep-2019
1:51:57 PM
There is no local distributor. I bought Hold Sets A and B from the UK and paid shipping. Not much change from a grand, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than a bicycle.
Cam McKenzie
30-Sep-2019
2:24:58 PM
Thanks Gordo,
That is a hell of a lot cheaper than the tension holds! Local (QLD) distributor for a full set of holds for a tension board is over $7K, they do look very nice though.

What are you using for mats? Old mattresses or proper matting? I'm getting old, not sure I want to fall on old crusty mattresses anymore.
cheers
jacksonclimbs
30-Sep-2019
3:02:27 PM
Congrats! I'm also expecting my first in December and prepping for the inevitable descent into becoming a boulderer ;)

I'm a big fan of the moonboard, the community and the idea of not having to come up with my own problems. Travel with work has meant that I have climbed on a few different moonboards. The one they have in Auckland has trimmed the bottom off the kicker so that the lower set of feet are pretty much on the ground. This makes a lot of the problems really difficult, as you have less space to pull up into and generate momentum - particularly with the new set of holds, that has a lot of lower awkward sit starts. I can't see cutting off the top set of holds would work well either, as every problem is designed to finish on the top out row. I really don't think it's worth doing a moonboard unless you can do it to the spec - if I had the roof clearance I would definitely build one.

As for putting it outside, I've seen people do that before but personally I'd take a non-moonboard inside where I can train year round with air con vs. an outdoor wall. I just can't get as psyched to train in dry Melbourne heat for 2 months and the winter months here are pretty wet. I've also read in climber posts about 'preparing for parenthood' that you want your training tools as close to the living area where you will be with the baby, as possible, and that if it is outside, then you're much less likely to use it.

I first built a woody at the start of 2018 in my garage, I went with 40 deg and it was 2.9m of travel with a 17cm kicker. I got it in a space that I think was a 2.55m ceiling - you have to take into account that unless you angle off the top of the board, you will be restricted with space. I've put a few drill holes in the top beam and thrown on some slopers for top out holds.

Since moving house, I've rebuilt my board from the same materials. I have more clearance here - still not enough to do a moonboard though - and so I went with a 30 degree wall as I found that the 40 degree was a bit too overhanging to make it worthwhile training for what we actually climb on here in Victoria. I also increased the kicker to 30 cm. Setting is a pain. I've tried recreating boulder problems and cruxes from outdoor problems by watching videos and that has helped a bit.

The mistake I did make, is that I just went with a random offset spacing for the bolt holes. If I did it again, I'd actually use the moonboard spec spacing on the panels, so that if and when I upgrade to a moonboard, I can at least salvage the panels from the old woody.
Olbert
4-Oct-2019
10:59:50 AM
Thanks for the advice everyone...at the moment I'm leaving towards the garage woody but I'm still thinking about it.

gordoste
7-Oct-2019
11:40:07 AM
On 30-Sep-2019 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>Thanks Gordo,
>That is a hell of a lot cheaper than the tension holds! Local (QLD) distributor
>for a full set of holds for a tension board is over $7K, they do look very
>nice though.
>
>What are you using for mats? Old mattresses or proper matting? I'm getting
>old, not sure I want to fall on old crusty mattresses anymore.
>cheers

I have two boulder mats (mine and my training buddy's) on top of some thin gym mats. The problem is that my matting covers about 90% of the width of the board so I have to slide it across to whichever side I'm climbing. I am looking into getting some proper matting because the kids are climbing on it these days and I'd like it to be safer. If anyone knows a good supplier I'd love any tips.

Olbert - I'd really recommend moving house. Not joking.




gfdonc
7-Oct-2019
12:26:51 PM
Good mats are expensive. I got a gym-quality, vinyl-covered mat from a local manufacturer here in Melbourne for a great price, but had no choice of colour (it's red). It's 3mx1.5m, 250mm thick.
Try TKK Sports - web site looks defunct but they're easy to find with Google.
jacksonclimbs
9-Oct-2019
9:35:59 AM
I am about to go with Rae-Line on a custom size mat, 1600mm x 2400mm x 300mm is $800 delivered. They did the mats for a lot of the gyms here in Melbourne and they are doing the same bouldering style foam etc - they meet certain fall standards for head impact and so forth. It's about the same price to buy a similar sized crash mat from a martial arts supplier, but this one is designed with bouldering falls in mind.

I looked at doing the mat myself, but even just buying the foam at retail prices through clark foam and rubber was more expensive than buying a ready made mat.
Cam McKenzie
9-Oct-2019
1:39:59 PM
Thanks for the mat suggestions guys, will check them out.
cheers

salty crag
9-Oct-2019
2:00:03 PM
If you go option 3 and build a regular woody check out Xe-s holds. They often do specials on their small footers at $1 per hold, they make great small crimps and pinches.

Big G
19-Oct-2019
11:40:58 AM
Hey Olbert

I have a custom made crash mat that is suitable for indoor or outdoor use. 3x2m approx. made of the material for yacht covers and is filled with various sponge off cuts. Very reasonable price and in Canberra.

There are 19 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints