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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Beal opera
Stugang
14-Oct-2018
2:09:21 AM
Anyone used one? Comments? I just bought a 100m one when shopping for a 70m rope. Got it for just over $300 so I just paid before thought processes kicked in.

Iím aware of hassles of long ropes but ffs I can use as doubles/twin most of the time and link 3 pitches at a whim.

White Trash
14-Oct-2018
2:48:32 AM
On 14-Oct-2018 Stugang wrote:
>Comments?
>I can use as doubles/twin most of the time and link 3 pitches at a whim.

Three?
Singapore must have shortarse pitches then, or super wandery routes.

Buy a second one to facilitate long retreats off that place you climbed at recently!
Stugang
15-Oct-2018
2:41:31 AM
Yeh ha ha. Apologies for my poor turn of phrase but Iím sure you get what I mean.

However has anyone used one and got comments????
One Day Hero
15-Oct-2018
5:01:14 AM
All I know is FranÁois Petit and Stephanie Bodet were using one on Taipan and he had awesome hair. If your follicular game is on point, I say go for it.

Goshen
18-Oct-2018
2:51:31 AM
I've got them in 60m; and use them mostly as doubles; but with the added advantage of being able to do super lightweight sends on a single. Long pitches with both ropes does get a bit weighty; but they do feel really solid.

The only downside of the longer rope and doing massive pitches with one rope is that it's lifespan will be reduced; but I guess if you keep chopping it down, it'll still be great, or even if half will be a nice pair of doubles (although same colour)... Good rope though.
Stugang
27-Oct-2018
3:52:02 AM
Thanks goshen. Iíve managed to rid myself of buyers regret. My 100m rope has a different weave pattern on either half so I reckon most of the time Iíll use it as a double/twin 50m rope. But having the option to go for linkin three 30m pitches seems a pretty awesome to have in the back pocket.
GriZZly
28-Oct-2018
7:32:10 AM
@ODH you probably mean Arnaud?

@OP Best rope you'll ever use! I've been using (and selling) these and jokers for the last 4 years. I've only ever used as a single. The lightweight and thin diameter are great when you're 40m+ up, there's so little drag it feels like you only just left the ground! I'm 80kg and they last a lot longer than people expect from such a 'skinny' rope.

Enjoy!
Stugang
28-Oct-2018
8:15:31 AM
Thanks grizzly. As I said before my buyers regret was over a few days ago.

Now after your observations I only have buyers psyche to go out and climb.

Xx
One Day Hero
28-Oct-2018
4:51:29 PM
On 28-Oct-2018 GriZZly wrote:
>@ODH you probably mean Arnaud?

Oof, I can't believe I got my Petits muddled. Thanks for the correction.
johnpitcairn
28-Oct-2018
7:35:05 PM
FWIW, we spent a couple of weeks at Araps recently using a Mammut Serenity 8.7, sometimes half but mostly as a single rope, because it didn't feel insane. No super-heavy working sessions, but a lot of abseils and some falls for sure including off the Howling Wolf crux - these triple-rated ropes are the future I reckon.
One Day Hero
28-Oct-2018
9:15:05 PM
On 28-Oct-2018 johnpitcairn wrote:
>these triple-rated
>ropes are the future I reckon.

I'd need to see evidence that the resistance to rope cutting is up there with thicker ropes. On 20m routes (most sport climbing and single pitches at Araps) I couldn't care less about spending big bucks and saving a hundred grams.

Probably a sensible compromise in "the greater ranges" but who actually climbs anything big and cool anymore? Not me.
Stugang
29-Oct-2018
5:20:24 PM
As for safety this video of Beal Unicore vs standard ropes is both scary and impressive at the same time

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CtURlhPssQI
AndreasAachen
29-Oct-2018
5:32:09 PM
On 29-Oct-2018 Stugang wrote:
>As for safety this video of Beal Unicore vs standard ropes is both scary
>and impressive at the same time
>
>https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CtURlhPssQI

I'm a big fan of the Unicore, but not sure this Video is great. Using an ascender, which is purely clamped on the sheath, is not really fair (Unless this is the situation you want to test for). You probably want to out a knot in both ends to pull from, to really test the advantage of the unicore.


Stugang
30-Oct-2018
6:34:18 AM
I donít think the test is that bad. Sure with the jumar the failure is pretty spectacular but isnít the point that the unicore didnít fail.

Even putting aside jumar situations I can imagine a number of scenarios that are pretty close to that....sure the standard rope may perform better than in the test but sh#t....if I was ever in one of those situations (touch wood never) I sure know which kind of rope Iíd rather be tied into.

In general Iím a bit of an anti gear junkie and never follow developments and couldnít give much of a shit about a few grams here or there. But seeing this recently really has made me think I wonít buy another rope that Iíd use outside without this kind of treatment. Do any other brands do anything similar?

White Trash
30-Oct-2018
9:27:14 PM
On 30-Oct-2018 Stugang wrote:
>In general Iím a bit of an anti gear junkie and never follow developments
>and couldnít give much of a shit about a few grams here or there. But seeing
>this recently really has made me think I wonít buy another rope that Iíd
>use outside without this kind of treatment. Do any other brands do anything
>similar?

An anti gear junkie seeking further gear info?
Wtf?
beryllium10
1-Nov-2018
8:42:06 PM
100 m? Lots of good options, like Gigantor in one pitch. 1974 guide says it "was originally climbed in one run out, on a single rope. This necessitated the carrying of 94 pitons, borrowed from 7 different sources, 110 Krabs, 80 hero loops and 20 crackers. It was not climbed this way either for safety or speed, being hardly any faster or safer, but being such a smooth, straight line offered a perfect opportunity for a hard working cat to find out what it would be like to be an eagle". Carrying 94 pegs you'd want to have a lightweight rope.

There are 16 messages in this topic.

 

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