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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Stretching booties
Stugang
21-Aug-2018
7:59:21 AM
Iíve never done it before but whatís the deal with giving shoes a good soaking by wearing them in the shower? What is the intention of doing that? Is it to stretch or give a personalised foot shape fit? How long do you leave them on after soaking?

Reason I ask is Iíve got a couple of pairs of shoes I used to climb with a long way back. Theyíre still in good nick and I can still get my hoof into them but theyíre 1/2 to 1 size too big now for my swollen aged feet.

Should I give the shower a crack or pass them into my kids whoís feet are growing at a very expensive rate?
Cheers stu

White Trash
21-Aug-2018
11:45:49 AM
On 21-Aug-2018 Stugang wrote:
>Iíve never done it before but whatís the deal with giving shoes a good
>soaking by wearing them in the shower? What is the intention of doing that?
>Is it to stretch or give a personalised foot shape fit? How long do you
>leave them on after soaking?
>
>Reason I ask is Iíve got a couple of pairs of shoes I used to climb with
>a long way back. Theyíre still in good nick and I can still get my hoof
>into them but theyíre 1/2 to 1 size too big now for my swollen aged feet.
>
>
>Should I give the shower a crack or pass them into my kids whoís feet
>are growing at a very expensive rate?
>Cheers stu
>
Shoes to big for swollen aged hoof?
The age thing has you confused?
Rubber doesnít stretch (or shrink) with that method, only the leather so be careful of creating unusual fit because rand not changing.

Leave em on till they dry. A hairdryer helps.
Oh, An the dye will pigment your hoof nicely.

You in Singapore yeh? Hoof prolly swollen due heat? Returning to cold Vic will cause your hoofs to shrink again?
Not to worry. Singapore is cheap shops an even Amelda Marcos shopped there.

All else fails barter them with mig75 who its rumoured collect such things.
One Day Hero
22-Aug-2018
2:33:35 AM
Only works on leather shoes. As white trash said, it doesn't give you extra length. I've gotten good results with stretching little bobbles for the toe knuckles, which takes a bit of pressure off the front of the toes.

Mark the spots you want to stretch, wet leather, then shove stuff in there to stretch it out. I don't use my feet anymore. Keep rewetting and shoving until desired result is attained (weeks).
mikllaw
22-Aug-2018
3:07:17 AM
When stretching runs out, you can thin down patches on the rand over toehurty points with a grinder, file, or sharp knife. Or even grind or slash away the slingshot. A bit at a time
Stugang
22-Aug-2018
7:31:44 AM
Cheers guys. Ill keep the stretching as a last resort and try miklaw suggestion.

I just coughed up for a resole on some old booties that were my go to shoes for climbing all day on easy stuff. Ended up with the worst resole ever - you guys in Oz donít know how lucky you are with Big John and Araps resole where the folk doing the job understand climbing.

The one guy in Singapore that does it turned my slippers into gum boots and placed more rubber over the top of a perfectly good toe cap. Filing that shit job back prolly has a better chance of giving me a pair of all dayers than stretching my 7.5 bambas.

Cheers stu.

Chloe
23-Aug-2018
7:53:35 PM
On 22-Aug-2018 Stugang wrote:
>Cheers guys. Ill keep the stretching as a last resort and try miklaw suggestion.
>
>
>I just coughed up for a resole on some old booties that were my go to
>shoes for climbing all day on easy stuff. Ended up with the worst resole
>ever - you guys in Oz donít know how lucky you are with Big John and Araps
>resole where the folk doing the job understand climbing.
>
>The one guy in Singapore that does it turned my slippers into gum boots
>and placed more rubber over the top of a perfectly good toe cap. Filing
>that shit job back prolly has a better chance of giving me a pair of all
>dayers than stretching my 7.5 bambas.
>
>Cheers stu.

With the likely amount of climbers over there it would seem worthwhile to educate the Ďone guyí on whatís required, especially with your feedback, so that in future the jobís done correctly?
Then again, maybe the majority of climbers there are of the throw-away, consumer mentality; or gym type wall scrabblers where double rubber toe rands are an asset for shoe longevity!
Stugang
24-Aug-2018
12:11:36 AM
Yeh I think I will. One point do any people here get just 1/4 (or less) resoles?

Iíd never heard about it until this job and assumed a 1/2 resole was the default. This was another major problem with the job in that he only replaced the first couple of inches creating a rubber join just in front of the ball of the foot. To make things worse the rubber used was twice as thick as the original which created a weird hard/soft shoe transition that is totally off putting when smearing or using anything bigger than a toehold.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
24-Aug-2018
12:32:42 AM
On 24-Aug-2018 Stugang wrote:
>Yeh I think I will. One point do any people here get just 1/4 (or less)
>resoles?
>
>Iíd never heard about it until this job and assumed a 1/2 resole was the
>default. This was another major problem with the job in that he only replaced
>the first couple of inches creating a rubber join just in front of the
>ball of the foot. To make things worse the rubber used was twice as thick
>as the original which created a weird hard/soft shoe transition that is
>totally off putting when smearing or using anything bigger than a toehold.

Miguel75 would love your one-off designer-unique climbing shoes stugang, as it sounds like the Ďone guyí did a royal job on them...
Heh, heh, heh.

Hey mate, think of the positive aspect to your shoe repair - at least if the under-ball-of-foot aggravation has your attention, then you presumably arenít being hassled by the mosquitoe landing on your ankle pin thatíd cause you to
>jump around screaming like a screaming jumping thing
~> which would certainly upset a delicate smear move!
Stugang
24-Aug-2018
7:54:45 AM
Trouble just seems to follow me. Apparently Singapore doesnít allow constructive feedback.
Stugang
25-Aug-2018
12:52:48 AM
In amongst my rant above there was a serious question- does anyone use or do 1/4 resoles? Iíve never heard of it but I am out of touch - seems a weird thing to do and I can only see negative performance issues but really appreciate if someone more knowledgeable can chip in or confirm my concerns.

Iím planning on giving some constructive feedback to the guy in Singapore and before I lay the boot into 1/4 sole approach wouldnít mind confirmation of my concerns.

Cheers stu

ajfclark
25-Aug-2018
2:49:48 PM
What do you mean by quarter?

On all the shoes he's done for me, Phil only does from the ball of the foot to the toe, and the rand if needed.
Stugang
25-Aug-2018
4:35:10 PM
By 1/4 I mean just the first couple of inches. So the join between new and old is just before the widest part of the shoe. Iíve never seen that done before either but just wanted to check if there wasnít some mysterious practice that I havenít seen before


IdratherbeclimbingM9
25-Aug-2018
5:20:09 PM
On 25-Aug-2018 Stugang wrote:
>By 1/4 I mean just the first couple of inches. So the join between new
>and old is just before the widest part of the shoe. Iíve never seen that
>done before either but just wanted to check if there wasnít some mysterious
>practice that I havenít seen before
>
>

Stu, just for clarification, is the resole a simple butt joint or an overlay wedge joint where the wedge is tapered, so itís a smooth transition from new to original rubber (ground off to suit), in which case the flex point is spread out along the length of the ball of foot point more?

Canít imagine you paying for the former without checking it first...
Stugang
28-Aug-2018
9:43:28 PM
Overlay edge. Problem is not the join itís the change in rubber thickness in a really sensitive area on a slipper style shoe.

In any case Iíve climbed with them a few times now with no improvement. Despite the above the main thing causing issues is the unnecessary double toecap. It has added length and width to the sole but my toe is in the same place inside the shoe. Feels really insecure edging on anything less than a platform. Iím taking them back and going to get him to grind it off.
One Day Hero
29-Aug-2018
4:57:14 PM
Can you post up a photo of your quarter resoled, double capped shoes? I can't be the only one who wants to laugh at how grim your climbing situation has become.
Stugang
29-Aug-2018
7:00:55 PM
On 29-Aug-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>Can you post up a photo of your quarter resoled, double capped shoes? I
>can't be the only one who wants to laugh at how grim your climbing situation
>has become.

Posting photos is a pain but if you google ďdragon horn tiomanĒ you can all giggle away at how sad climbing in Singapore is.
Stugang
1-Sep-2018
2:58:54 AM
I know you are all losing sleep over what happened next with my booties.

So today went to the shop and got him to grind back the toecap and itis 100% better. Really nice guy and appreciated the feedback.

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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