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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Author
Re-slinging #11 Hexcentric?
ldshield
9/05/2017
8:21:23 AM
I recently obtained a #11 BD Hexcentric (a large hex on a wire). I haven't used it yet, and obviously I'll try it out before I make any changes, but I was advised to cut the wire off and sling it with cord. The BD web site advises that although they won't do re-slings, it's OK for you to do it, and that you should use 5.5mm aramide cord. However, the holes in the hex are quite small (~5mm), which seems awfully narrow. Does anybody have experience re-slinging Hexcentrics with narrow cord, and how did it turn out?

ajfclark
9/05/2017
8:58:18 AM
Why did they suggest you cut the wire off? Is it damaged?

I quite like my hexes on wires.

Sabu
9/05/2017
9:00:49 AM
Was it that much of a concern to need re-slinging? I know a lot of people prefer slings on their hexes but I've always had the BD wired hexes and they do the job well enough. The 11 is also so big you're unlikely to take it up every pitch.
gfdonc
9/05/2017
9:26:05 AM
I support the original advice. Hexes on wires cripple them, the stiffer wire tends to make them harder to place in a cammed position.
On the other hand webbing lacks enough stiffness to aid placement.
5mm spectra should be well strong enough, use a suitable knot though.
Dr Nick
9/05/2017
10:09:47 AM
Disclaimer: I don't know the wired BD hexes that well, but....

A #11 is bloody huge. I've got an old one that's slung with 9mm static. It'd probably be safe and simple to redrill the holes to accept whatever size cord you want to use, provided you're careful to deburr the edges and round them off a bit. Aluminium is soft enough that you'll have no problems with even a $2 shop 8-10 mm drill bit, and there'll be tonnes of metal left around the edges.

That said, it's a life support thing and you'd want to have a good hard think about taking a drill to it. 5mm aramid is going to be stronger than required anyway.
gfdonc
9/05/2017
10:49:39 AM
I didn't say it the first time around, but I'd also be following Dr Nick's advice if it were mine. I prefer nylon to spectra. The old corded hexes used to take 9mm; 8mm should be OK too.
Disclaimers, etc.

Eduardo Slabofvic
9/05/2017
11:29:39 AM
Ditch the Hex and get tricams instead. They're heaps of fun

ajfclark
9/05/2017
12:01:36 PM
On 9/05/2017 gfdonc wrote:
>Hexes on wires cripple them, the stiffer wire tends to make them harder to place in a cammed position.

I've not found this to be the case or at least, I can't think of a cammed placement where I've thought "Gee those wires are really getting in the way".

Except possibly for this kind of shenanigans:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_jUyShGeh7Xg/Sgxxb_TL-LI/AAAAAAAAACE/gZP-ZvumNoo/s1600-h/hexentric-placement-6.png
Which might be better suited to a tricam.

Grinder
9/05/2017
1:44:49 PM
I use Spectra Cord on my hexes and I think it works well. The Spectra is really durable and I have seen no signs of wear around the holes where it takes a 90 degree bend. The tight fit and the stiffer cord means the hex doesn't slide around on the cord which would be annoying. It has more flexibility than a wire and you can chose how long you want the sling to be.

Having said that, big hexes often get dropped into deep placement and the stiffness of a wire can be useful for placing them and getting them out.

In the end it will come down to your personal preference, so I'd suggest that you give the wire a go and see how you like it. There's no problems with going to the cord later, except that it's harder to go back to a wire once you've done that.

JamesMc
9/05/2017
6:21:26 PM
Nice thing about a # 11 is you can fit the knot inside the the Hex.
PeterW
9/05/2017
10:59:28 PM
On 9/05/2017 JamesMc wrote:
>Nice thing about a # 11 is you can fit the knot inside the the Hex.

The same goes for #9 and #10 (at least the old school sizes).

On the other hand, as I discovered recently it can be challenging to get the knot back out again when you need to replace the sling! :-)

Doug
10/05/2017
7:24:38 AM
We have our large Hexes slung on Spectra as well. Much nicer to use that way, both in placing the pieces and while carrying.
ldshield
10/05/2017
9:44:33 AM
There's nothing wrong with the wire, ajfclark; it's just that it seems quite unwieldy and inconvenient.
Old_Man
11/05/2017
12:00:52 PM
Dear Marg, I have an old Chouinard 11 with 39 factory-drilled holes; the smaller holes in the top are 9mm. Should I throw it away? Please advise. "Worried", Emmenthal
BA
11/05/2017
1:33:06 PM
Back in the day ... The only booty I came across always seemed to be an 11 Hex, undrilled! They were taken to work and drilled out to match the drilled Hex that I already owned. (Did I really want 3 size 11 Hexes? No, I didn't!) I also remember drilling the rope holes in some of my stoppers to take a larger diameter cord. And having an 11 Hex on 9mm rope with the knot on the inside is a pox to replace, I think I used a knife, after all you are replacing the cord.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
11/05/2017
9:18:20 PM
On 11/05/2017 Old_Man wrote:
>Dear Marg, I have an old Chouinard 11 with 39 factory-drilled holes; the
>smaller holes in the top are 9mm. Should I throw it away? Please advise.
>"Worried", Emmenthal

Laughed aloud at that.
;-)


Hmm.
>Reslinging pro...
Is this the third or fourth thirteenth(?) time this topic has come up?
Heh, heh, heh.
ldshield
15/05/2017
4:12:52 PM
The topic of re-slinging hexes has indeed come up, but my specific question (original wire vs re-sling with cord) didn't seem to have.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/05/2017
9:22:22 PM
On 15/05/2017 ldshield wrote:
>The topic of re-slinging hexes has indeed come up, but my specific question
>(original wire vs re-sling with cord) didn't seem to have.

So, do you feel that your specific question has been answered in sufficient detail, or are you still seeking further info, other than the "it's personal preference" response?
ldshield
19/05/2017
3:18:32 PM
Yes, it has been answered- thank you! I suppose I just didn't want to find out later (the hard way) that nobody does this because the holes in the hex are too small, or something like that.

gnaguts
20/05/2017
1:39:31 PM
On 9/05/2017 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>Ditch the Hex and get tricams instead. They're heaps of fun.

Much it painz me 2 admit it , my fiend ed is rite , an if U want furtha confirmatn just goog monties utube vid of how much fun he had placin em on lead a while bak afta he spun there virtu on chocky.

ed , good 2C U ketchup wit tha times, az peeps been dissin da hex bigtime sinc e come outa tha qikchange closet as imaseriuslizid

There are 20 messages in this topic.

 

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