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Petzl: D11 "Rappel Rack". For use with 1 or 2 ropes. Diameters from 9mm to 13mm. Two red fixed bars make for easy threading. SUPER Special!  $119.00
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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Accessory cord

flano
12/03/2017
8:23:23 AM
I've had no exposure to accessory cord so started researching it's uses on the internet. I've read through numerous forums with people sharing conflicting information on AC. Can I have fellow Chocktoners advise me on its use please.

Flano
12/03/2017
2:19:12 PM
After further research I found these two articles which answered my question.

http://blog.ropeandrescue.com/whats-the-difference-between-prusik-cord-and-accessory-cord/

http://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/9355/what-is-the-difference-between-accessory-cord-and-prusik-cord

It appears the only difference is one is slightly more softer than the other making it the ideal option as a friction device.
martym
12/03/2017
7:55:58 PM
I've not done any research like you, but my guess would b prusik cord must meet a certain kn standard while accessory cord is generally just for attaching .. Accessories... Without any expectation of dynamic force?

Flano
12/03/2017
8:51:51 PM
Some forums i read through had people stating they'd rapped on 7-8mm AC (not using a Gri Gri). Some peoples opinions on this was that it was safe whilst others stated "You're gonna die". Another person stated that they'd constructed a top rope setup using AC.

Going off the two links I discovered later it appears both AC and PC posses similar Kn with AC possessing slightly more than PC. AC is made up of more rigid fibers while PC is of a softer quality making it better for biting the rope as a friction device. Neither are made with dynamic use in mind. My conclusion from my research is that both are suited for static loads only with one being preferable for stereotypical prusik use while the other is suited for anchor building such as the W anchor John built at Phegans Bay that day.

If anyone has any more information they can share with me I'd really appreciate it. I've looked at manufacturers websites with no information differentiating the uses for them.

Flano
13/03/2017
10:35:44 AM
Tendon Website:

http://www.mytendon.com/accessory-cords

Accessory cords intended for static loading only, they must not absorb dynamic energy. They are used as connecting elements between the belaying system and the rope.

Phillipivan
13/03/2017
2:08:56 PM
I have a long length of 7mm AC for rapping on. It's fine as long as you ensure adequate friction in your device, which isn't rocket science.
PeterW
13/03/2017
4:28:32 PM
On 13/03/2017 Phillipivan wrote:
>I have a long length of 7mm AC for rapping on.

That brings back memories of how I got into climbing in 1971. I started out abseiling on a No. 2 hawser laid nylon rope which is roughly equivalent to a 7mm kernamantle rope. As you say, it works fine if you're careful about friction, but thin ropes can get mighty "bouncy" at the end! :-)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
13/03/2017
5:43:11 PM
On 12/03/2017 flano wrote:
>I've had no exposure to accessory cord so started researching it's uses
>on the internet. I've read through numerous forums with people sharing
>conflicting information on AC. Can I have fellow Chocktoners advise me
>on its use please.
&
>If anyone has any more information they can share with me I'd really appreciate it.

Hmm. What's the info being used for, personal interest or something more weighty?

As an old fart that's been around long enough to see progression in technology and having used the 'now relegated to inferior' products before new-technology rendered it into obsolescence ... my simple take on the matter is that they are largely interchangeable.

In a nutshell I'd say it comes down to the diameter being suited to the intended application more than the 'softness' or otherwise of the cord.


Flano
13/03/2017
6:20:13 PM
Personal interest only.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
13/03/2017
6:36:24 PM
Fair enough.

As an aside, from a 'strength' point of view, if you are intending to use anything 5mm or greater in diameter then you are likely to have adequate, if not 'over-kill', for both prusik, and 3 x anchor cordelette applications.

Flano
13/03/2017
8:51:53 PM
I'm glad that you mentioned cordelette. Is c/lette just a larger diameter of accessory cord or specifically designed for its intended purpose?
widewetandslippery
13/03/2017
9:17:56 PM
Note there are different cord materials for different uses. Perlon has a bit but not much stretch and knots well, polyester handles well but per weight is weak. Kevlar types dyneema/spectra stronger than steel slip asprussiks and require attentive knot tying. I am shore a more qualified geek out there can explain that better.

remember as M9 said anything 5mm+ is strong as. How often and what type of knots, single or double strand hauling(5mm double is 10mm) for abseil or haul. Note thinner cord tangles easier.
One Day Hero
13/03/2017
11:13:49 PM
On 13/03/2017 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I am shore a more qualified geek out
>there can explain that better.

Apparently all the fancy 'super polymer' thingys are much more susceptible to damage from u.v. and/or bending the fibres. After a year of two of use, nylon will be stronger. Hence, no more kevlar cord (and dyneema is getting badmouthed by climbing gear reps)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
14/03/2017
1:51:16 PM
On 13/03/2017 Flano wrote:
>I'm glad that you mentioned cordelette. Is c/lette just a larger diameter
>of accessory cord or specifically designed for its intended purpose?

Both!
Originally climbing rope, then smaller diameter rope was used for convenience, but later the convenience angle was commercialised and since then specifically designed items have appeared for the purpose of relieving us of our hard earned!

The search function on Chocky will reveal heaps of threads on prusik and also cordelette. A trawl of them will likely throw up tidbits of information you'd find interesting, along with links to further data.

Flano
18/03/2017
8:25:31 PM
Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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