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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
Author
Rack help
stugang
5-Dec-2014
6:21:15 PM
On 5/12/2014 patto wrote:
>How old are you and what town/city do you live in?
>
>If you want to get into lead climbing you need to have knowledgeable and
>willing partners to climbing with. This is more important that having
>the necessary gear.
>
>There are plenty of good clubs to join, but most are more available to
>adults than those under age. It seems that the greater need isn't buying
>gear for christmas, but finding somebody that you can climb with and that
>can teach you the basics.
I'm sure your ok but I know a girl who got into heaps of shit answering questions like that from sicckos in chat rooms. Like my initials are jf but my names not jay ford. Just sayin ya know.
patto
5-Dec-2014
6:40:03 PM
Lol! Fair call! You've been taught well! :-D


Duang Daunk
5-Dec-2014
6:40:38 PM
On 5/12/2014 Jayford4321 wrote:
>On 5/12/2014 patto wrote:
>>How old are you and what town/city do you live in?
>>
>>If you want to get into lead climbing you need to have knowledgeable
>and
>>willing partners to climbing with. This is more important that having
>>the necessary gear.
>>
>>There are plenty of good clubs to join, but most are more available to
>>adults than those under age. It seems that the greater need isn't buying
>>gear for christmas, but finding somebody that you can climb with and
>that
>>can teach you the basics.

>I'm sure your ok but I know a girl who got into heaps of shit answering
>questions like that from sicckos in chat rooms. Like my initials are jf
>but my names not jay ford. Just sayin ya know.
>
Are you seriously accusing bro patto of being a sicko?
Ok, I can live with that.
Just watch out for aid climbers, cos they have even more gear than patto.
patto
5-Dec-2014
6:45:04 PM
It is probably best that you and your mum speak to somebody at the climbing gym about this then.

Also, at places like Mt Arapiles, Grampians and Blue Mountains you can pay 'experts' to take you out climbing.

Duang Daunk
5-Dec-2014
6:49:06 PM
On 5/12/2014 patto wrote:
>It is probably best that you and your mum speak to somebody at the climbing
>gym about this then.
>
>Also, at places like Mt Arapiles, Grampians and Blue Mountains you can
>pay 'experts' to take you out climbing.

I'd trust the experts out there before some of the advice I'd get from the somebodies at climbing gyms.
Just sayin ya know bro.

Then again, if we are talkin about the exspurt bloke who wrote the book and konka Kerchoo out at Nati, we just hope Jayford4321 isn't a female asking for advice; an if same wants to travel the most obscure routes at Araps with the original obscure mentor who likes martinis for rehydration, then needs to make sure they have had their vaccination shots first.
stugang
5-Dec-2014
9:01:43 PM
In the gyms you need a pass to lead climb and they are always ti busy to give you a pass. Screwed hey.

Really gotta go. I'm already on my second strike for using my new phone after 8.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5-Dec-2014
9:06:21 PM
On 5/12/2014 Jayford4321 wrote:
>In the gyms you need a pass to lead climb and they are always ti busy to
>give you a pass. Screwed hey.
>
>Really gotta go. I'm already on my second strike for using my new phone
>after 8.

Phone internet is a pill hey?
... ~> Different topic; so how is your mum going to get the necessary feedback?
~> and I stongly suspect she isn't thinking a $1000 chrissy present is appropriate...
;-)
widewetandslippery
6-Dec-2014
7:05:51 AM
dont waste money on a guide. Climbing is about exploration, not being told what to do.
patto
6-Dec-2014
10:37:10 AM
This is what happens when Santa doesn't know how to use his equipment properly
stugang
6-Dec-2014
11:33:08 AM
Thanks everyone. Dads getting it.
stugang
25-Dec-2014
9:53:56 PM
Dad got me a sweet 10 Dmm Dragons. 4 wild country zeros. A set of Dmm chock stones and another set of Dmm chockstones with a bent shape. some really small stuff that got mum flipping out as to how unsafe they were. Then a bunch of wild country chocks. And another bunch of other wild country chocks that are smaller. The gear looks cool but it's heavy. Mum will get me a rope and quick draws. I've got about 35 chocks. Does that mean I need 35 quick draws or will I need more for belays on high climbs.
Dave_S
26-Dec-2014
1:06:56 AM
On 25/12/2014 Jayford4321 wrote:
>Dad got me a sweet 10 Dmm Dragons. 4 wild country zeros. A set of Dmm chock
>stones and another set of Dmm chockstones with a bent shape. some really
>small stuff that got mum flipping out as to how unsafe they were. Then
>a bunch of wild country chocks. And another bunch of other wild country
>chocks that are smaller. The gear looks cool but it's heavy. Mum will get
>me a rope and quick draws. I've got about 35 chocks. Does that mean I need
>35 quick draws or will I need more for belays on high climbs.

You would only need 35 quickdraws if you intended on placing every single one of your pieces of pro(tection) during a single pitch of climbing. And you don't, or shouldn't.

You carry a large number of different pieces of pro so that when you want to place something, you can find something that fits. You would never place every single piece you are carrying!
A dozen quickdraws is a more realistic number.
(And in case it isn't clear, they are carried separately, and then clipped to pro after it has been placed. You don't carry quickdraws pre-attached to each piece of pro.)

Are you getting your parents to book you in to a course on trad lead climbing once you have your rack? Because that would be a very good idea. The gear is only safe if you know how to use it!
martym
26-Dec-2014
7:47:09 AM
You rack your gear on separate biners to your QuickDraws, generally small light weight ones.


It's hard to find a good image, but sort of like this:


Personally, I have my gear generally racked:
BD cams size .3 to 1 on one biner
BD size 2-3 & a link cam
Size 4 on it's own
Small hexes on one
Larger hexes on another
All my nuts clipped together
All my tri cams together on the off chance I might use them one day.

These I put on my front gear loops; smallest to largest
Then the quick draws on the second set of gear loops.

Everyone will have a different style (including which direction th clip their harness)
When you do some training, you'll probably adopt that person's method ;)

TimP
26-Dec-2014
12:22:57 PM
I wish my christmas stocking had so much good gear!
Until you get someone to learn from have a read of this great book, an Australian guide on getting started

Do you have some locking carabiners and a belay device? Also some slings 60cm and 120cm are handy in anchors, slinging over spikes, around trees, through holes in the rock (as pro) and extending runners (sometimes quick draws keep your rope too close to the rock in a corner or change of direction which creates "rope drag" as you climb higher). A few free carabiners are good to use with the slings.
Your mum is right, the really small chocks or RP's (brass) are rated at about 3 to 4 kilo-newtons (a measure of force) they are used in aid climbing or paired up to meet a lead climb fall force which is from 4 to 7 kilo-newtons.
Yep all this stuff is heavy and gets in the way; you have to get used to this in lead climbing, try bouldering with a weight belt on to get a feel for the change in balance a rack creates.
It's good to play with placing the gear and getting used to organising it on your harness, also clipping the rope can be awkward; practice at ground level or on top-rope. It's very informative to weight test your placements as you practice at ground level, clip a long sling to it to put your foot in and put some body weight on. Keep your face away incase it pops out. You'll soon learn what a good placement is and have practice at getting them out (did you get a nut tool too? these are to help lever or poke chocks out)
There is a lot of good info here on Chockstone, use the search function for a specific question quite often there'll be something in the forum discussions.

bentobox
26-Dec-2014
2:17:37 PM
I know you're keen to get some gear and send it up some big climbs but I'd definitely recommend climbing with a qualified instructor/guide for 2-3 days and use their gear. You'll come out of it with knowledge on how to place the right gear correctly, knots you didn't even know existed and when to use them, how to get your ass out of trouble when things turn to shit, setting up anchors, rapping / multi pitch rapping (not the yo yo homie gee kind), general technique etc.

That was my experience with a guide anyway.

But thats just my two cents. If you're gonna go it alone i just suggesting buying a heap of slings as mentioned above. They're cheap and handy.
Evdog
30-Dec-2014
5:46:08 PM
I know you want to bust out with your new gear and hit something up, but discretion is the better part of valor JF, and if valor consisted also of caution, then that would be the better part still. The VCC has two upcoming trips for beginners in Jan/Feb: one to Black Hill, and one to Camels Hump (a preferable location for first time trad leading). Check the VCC website for details: http://www.vicclimb.org.au/location/events.

Getting your lead climbing pass in a gym (and i'm guessing a Melbourne gym, as you pluralized gyms and live in VIC) is indeed a pest, but it provides vital experience that will set you up for leading trad outdoors - learn how to clip a biner with one hand (in under 3 mins), take an experience whipper off a nice steep lead wall and get the basics locked up in the safest environment possible.

When I made my first trad lead it was after seconding experienced climbers on multi pitches for two years, leading in the gym for a year and successfully leading a couple of bolted sports routes. I lead a 12 - it was scary. Get experience and get help before you undertake this. Trust me, i'm a teacher!

ambyeok
5-Jan-2015
1:06:11 PM
You don't need to lead in a gym. It might be fun and all but has very little in common with the simple trad climbs you'd initially be doing outdoors. If trad is your goal then you'd probably be better off not leading indoors first.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
There are 37 messages in this topic.

 

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