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9-Dec-2010 4:33:02 PM
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I dunno about anyone else, but I think the idea of bell-curve bolt strength is marvelous............"ooooh, be careful of those things, they look really shiney and new!" hahahhahahhaha
Then again, I reckon the greatest acheivement of australian climbing, perhaps even world climbing, was the seatbelt-as-pro concept which Mikl pioneered. So I understand that others may not see the awesomeness of bell-bolts
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9-Dec-2010 4:37:27 PM
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I believe that the volume increase in by a factor of just over 9.
The change from Fe to Fe2O3.(nH2O) causes an increase in volume due to a combination of oxidation, hydration and the re-alignment of the chemical constituents. Steel generally has densely packed atoms with a strong alignment of its crystalline structure (depending on the production process). Hence its high weight per volume. Hydrated iron(II) oxide, or rust, has a very loose crystalline structure. The H2O component is not permanently bound to the Fe2O3 and is a significant factor in volume increases.
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9-Dec-2010 5:03:09 PM
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On 9/12/2010 The good Dr wrote:
>I believe that the volume increase in by a factor of just over 9.
wild guess on my part, sorry
Magnetite is a different oxidation state (Fe2+?), I wouldn't have thought it would occur on climbing gear, but look at this piton with wierd concoidal fracures in the 'rust'

Fell out of the start of Lief Ericcson
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