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Climbing Injuries - Tell me what you have!


BoulderBaby

23-Mar-2011
3:21:24 PM

Hey guys.

I've just started studying clinical myotherapy, and many of you know that when I'm qualified, I would like to specialise in rehabilitation of climbing injuries.

This is an informal invitation to you all to volunteer what injuries you have, purely for my self interest - I am in no means able to tell you 'how to fix it' or anything, I am merely curious, and hope to one day create a study.

By injuries, I mean diagnosed, or undiagnosed musculoskeletal problems, that affect your climbing. I am also interested in injuries caused by climbing.

Please no trolls, to be honest I'm rather sick of almost every thread on this forum being hijaked, and I ask of you to respect my wishes, and help me out.

Olivia


pezz

23-Mar-2011
3:37:24 PM

when my arms get pumped out at a steep gym session my left arm stays jacked up all session where my right calms between climbs(whilst belaying) i just put it down to muscle development in my left arm as my right is my stronger...


pmonks

23-Mar-2011
3:40:44 PM

Must... fight... urge... to... troll...

Over the years I've had a variety of injuries, including:

Random "sore fingers" - finger "gives out", invariably while doing some hardish move bouldering in the gym - a couple of weeks RICE usually sorts it out. Usually the pain is felt inside the first knuckle, with some tenderness.

Impinged tendon in shoulder. This is my latest and scariest injury (couldn't lift my arm for a couple of days), and apparently stems from too much Chockstoning with poor posture. Physio prescribed solution (which is working wonders) has been to correct my bad posture and strengthen up the muscles that help maintain it (lots of deep abdominal work - I didn't know Kegel's were good for blokes too!).

About a year ago I did something to one of my achilles tendons (again, in the gym, on a treadmill of all stupid things). Considering getting this one looked at as it's still not 100% despite lots of RICE since I did it.

"Climber's elbow" - Dr Julian did a remote diagnosis on this one and prescribed brachioradialis exercises (reverse curls) to strengthen it. Those helped a lot.

About 2 years after taking up climbing my fingers started to curl up involuntarily at work. Osteo prescribed various forearm stretches (diagnosed as a change in the "rest position" of the forearm muscles) and this got me started on yoga as well (which has helped me avoid injury more than anything else I've done, I reckon).

Probably some others that I'm forgetting too...


pmonks

23-Mar-2011
3:46:29 PM

On 23/03/2011 pezz wrote:
>when my arms get pumped out at a steep gym session my left arm stays jacked
>up all session where my right calms between climbs(whilst belaying) i just
>put it down to muscle development in my left arm as my right is my stronger...

Maybe you need to change hands while... you know... a bit more often?

*sigh* I knew I couldn't resist. :-(

gfdonc

23-Mar-2011
3:48:42 PM

I get some pain in my left shoulder. Not sure what causes it, and it's not major. A massage seems to help.

Also some pain in the left elbow tendon at present. Not major again but noticed it last night. I've not had elbow tendon problems for about a year.

Stopping training for a week or two seems to produce soreness in tendons.

Lastly some of my 2nd finger joints (working back from the tip) are a bit sore, I think that's always there. Something to do with typing too many posts.

satan

23-Mar-2011
3:52:20 PM

You name it, I've got it. Bones spurs on my knees., Rotator Cuff (or perhaps something more serious), arthritis, not to mention alcoholism, depression and severe neurosis.

And really, you can't ask people to be serious on the internet.

JDB

23-Mar-2011
3:56:15 PM

Is this a competition?
At the moment I've only got 3 injuries (one of which is still a pain(the finger) whilst the others are coming good)
1) Inpinged Ulner nerve (above elbow, below triceps)
2) Brachioradialis strain
3) Ganglion in/on index finger (joint closest to finger nail)
Have had a bad rotator cuff injury years ago, but I'm sure someone can out-do this pathetic list.
p.s There a guy at the gym who has had double bicep tendon avulsions (different arms)


BoulderBaby

23-Mar-2011
3:58:49 PM

Haha! Please don't make this a competition! :P

JDB

23-Mar-2011
4:02:26 PM

On 23/03/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>I get some pain in my left shoulder. Not sure what causes it, and it's
>not major. A massage seems to help.
>
>Also some pain in the left elbow tendon at present. Not major again but
>noticed it last night. I've not had elbow tendon problems for about a year.
>
>Stopping training for a week or two seems to produce soreness in tendons.
>
>Lastly some of my 2nd finger joints (working back from the tip) are a
>bit sore, I think that's always there. Something to do with typing too
>many posts.
>
I also get pain in my gluteus maximi when I climb with GFDonc
(Note : This is attempted humour not a hijack)


dimpet

23-Mar-2011
4:17:45 PM

Physio told me I have this
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dupuytren's_contracture

Its supposed to be genetic but can't help wonder if climbing helped it come along.


ajfclark

23-Mar-2011
4:22:33 PM

Dr J says it does: http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/resources/feature_articles/blonds_have_more_fun/

Climbers be warned! Dupuytren's is most common in those whose activities involved strenuous gripping, especially if what you're gripping vibrates as well.

bones

23-Mar-2011
4:35:47 PM

I've had rotator cuff tendonitis from reaching for a hold behind me on a corner climb. Shoulders were out of action for a few months.


BoulderBaby

23-Mar-2011
4:41:20 PM

Haha, I know you guys can't resist, but please don't trivialise - I'm only really after the information from yourself - don't trivialise other injuries - Unless you're a physio, then I'd love to discuss :D

Ooo, some of you guys have some right ouchy injuries!!


ajfclark

23-Mar-2011
4:48:14 PM

Who's trivialising anything? He posted mentioning that he thought it might be related to climbing and I pointed him to some specific information about climbing and Dupuytren's.


Gavo

23-Mar-2011
4:56:33 PM

I tore a lumbrical muscle in my left hand between the tendons of the ring and small finger a month or so ago. Seems ok now, though the wrist is a bit painful at times.

gfdonc

23-Mar-2011
5:13:52 PM

On 23/03/2011 JDB wrote:

>I also get pain in my gluteus maximi when I climb with GFDonc
>(Note : This is attempted humour not a hijack)

I sometimes get spasms in my abdominals reading some of Eduardo's posts.


nmonteith

23-Mar-2011
5:19:09 PM

• Left knee has fully dislocated twice (once climbing, once dancing). I can't do dropknees with it anymore.
• Right knee currently is very tweaky - from doing high heel hooks in Bluies horizontal slots on the weekend. I can't twist it sideways without shooting pain.
• Left shoulder - aches badly after lots of climbing (or pushups). I usually can't sleep on that side.
• Left elbow - sharp pain when doing pushups - presumably some sort of tennis elbow type injury.
• Left wrist - wierd popping dislocation feeling occasionally. It sort of pops out and i loose all strength when doing powerful open hand moves. Not really painful.
• Right finger - blew a pully about 5 years ago. Never really felt the same since.
• Left ankle - Mangled my ligaments badly and broke something 2 years ago bouldering. Still very sore if i twist it running / rock hopping. After a few days of climbing rock shoes hurt.
• Lower back - just pretty fµcked in general. Sharp pain, aches. Mostly after extended roof climbing or bolting steep lines.

That's it so far! Who knows what joys I will have by the time I reach my 40s....


Miguel75

23-Mar-2011
5:33:28 PM

Just the normal bumps and bruises climbing though if you open up to snowboarding injuries let me know.


BoulderBaby

23-Mar-2011
5:46:37 PM

If it affects your climbing - sure.

I'm interested in injuries that affect your climbing, as well as ones caused by overuse/missuse/weakness through climbing.

I feel I should join in :D

Spondilolithisis of L5/S1
Hip impingment, Psoas major problems & ITB problems.

I get niggling in my shoulders, and achy tendons in my fingers whilst climbing.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

23-Mar-2011
8:16:07 PM

On 23/03/2011 Musique wrote:
>This is an informal invitation to you all to volunteer what injuries you
>have, purely for my self interest - I am in no means able to tell you 'how
>to fix it' or anything, I am merely curious, and hope to one day create
>a study.
>
Heaps, but that comes with age and an adventurous life.
I have learnt to live with the debilitation that goes with them...
☺

There are 73 messages in this topic.