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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 48
Author
Tribute Wall accident 11/09/2018

IdratherbeclimbingM9
9-Oct-2018
3:36:56 AM
On 4-Oct-2018 Stugang wrote:
>They were frothing that the bolts were maybe 10m apart on low angle good rock grade 15 with positive holds. I was dubbed “kamikaze Aussie” cos to shut them up I said I’d lead every pitch as opposed to swing leads. I was told that night that it was a disgrace that the bolts weren’t 2m apart and they with all their experience (eg I had to remind them of how to get safe and set up belay at a bolt anchor on a multipitch route) wanted to come back and retro the route we retreated off cos of rain.

... sounds like they need a guided tour of Booroomba from ODH.
Just keep 'em away from the Blueys, as they might become indistinguishable from the new breed sport climbers up there, and you'd be blamed for losing them!
Heh, heh, heh.

Vwills
10-Oct-2018
1:38:10 AM
Tioman does look fantastic. I read an article my steve McClure a few weeks back where he rope soloed something harder there. He was very honest about his multiple errors and it turned into rather an epic for him. He probably wished briefly the bolts were closer together. Maybe I need to get there before the singaporeans go back....
Stugang
10-Oct-2018
3:45:25 AM
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_-_trials+tribulations_on_tioman_island-11268

Yeh I read that just before our trip what an epic! Anyway if he can retreat off a 6c I don’t feel so bad about retreating off a 6b.

The route we were on is the 6b he tagged along for with the other party before his epic on another climb. Admittedly we only got four pitches up but some of the pitches were graded 6b and I really cannot believe they were harder than 5c - so there is some grade distortion happening on that route. That being said I think it is good being generously graded to dissuade less experienced folk from attempting it as regardless of technical difficulty it can get serious pretty quickly in the tropics.

The 6c he was on looks unbelievable and I really really want to do it - my understanding is that it is sensibly bolted and though at times spaced there are bolts at any hard bits. Unfortunately it is closed till March ish with monsoon starting now. I wouldn’t do it with the folk I was with on my trip - so I repeat anyone passing through Singapore after March next year let me know it is fkin awesome.
One Day Hero
10-Oct-2018
5:00:24 PM
On 26-Sep-2018 Wendy wrote:
>I am about 1.5m tall. If a bolt is at my feet when I clip a bolt at my face, I have about 2.5m about rope out. Add a tad of slack and rope stretch and I'm still going to go nearly 6m if I fall clipping.

This maths is all wack, no wonder you hate falling.

Assuming 2.5m of rope out and waist 0.7m above bolt (propped up on short little Wendy legs), your tiny feet will be 3.2m below where they started when you hit the rope. How small is the belayer if that turns into a 6m whipper with stretch etc?

In a situation where preventing the climber from hitting stuff trumps soft catch, an attentive belayer could suck a metre of rope in as you go, cutting the fall down to 2.5ish metres.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
10-Oct-2018
9:57:07 PM
On 10-Oct-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 26-Sep-2018 Wendy wrote:
>>I am about 1.5m tall. If a bolt is at my feet when I clip a bolt at my
>face, I have about 2.5m about rope out. Add a tad of slack and rope stretch
>and I'm still going to go nearly 6m if I fall clipping.
>
>This maths is all wack, no wonder you hate falling.
>
>Assuming 2.5m of rope out and waist 0.7m above bolt (propped up on short
>little Wendy legs), your tiny feet will be 3.2m below where they started
>when you hit the rope. How small is the belayer if that turns into a 6m
>whipper with stretch etc?
>
>In a situation where preventing the climber friendly om hitting stuff trumps
>soft catch, an attentive belayer could suck a metre of rope in as you go,
>cutting the fall down to 2.5ish metres.

Hmm.
Pedant alert!
My maths may be out of wack too, because it doesn’t add up to yours, but it's close.


Known assumptions!
Bolt at feet is clipped okay.
Feet to waist = 0.7m
Feet to bolt at face = 1.5 m
Waist to bolt at face = 0.8 m, x 2 for slack if clip is missed, therefore 1.6 m

1.6 m + 0.7 m + another 0.7 slack for the fall = 3.0 m

Where does your 3.2 m come from when the rope is hit?

Yeah, yeah 2.5+ 0.7=3.2 ... but is it the right calculation?
Rope stretch of only 0.2 m ???

Old time adage of ‘the leader must not fall’ solves the problem bigtime!
Heh, heh, heh.

JamesMc
10-Oct-2018
10:27:51 PM
Or clip it with your PAS before pulling the rope up if you're worried.
One Day Hero
10-Oct-2018
11:08:49 PM
I just used Wendy's estimate of 2.5m of rope out, then estimated her little munchkin legs would have the harness 70cm above the bolt and went from there. 3.2m of freefall until the rope starts acting on the climber, so 6m total fall is an outrageously soft catch.

There's a lot of bad ideas around. Everyone seems to think they're belaying either Chris Sharma or Dave Mcleod, and a tight catch will swing the climber back into the cave or strip the marginal gear. You're actually belaying Gavin on some poxy, ledgy ringbolted 15, with chickenheads everywhere......all that slack may not be a good idea.


Olbert
11-Oct-2018
1:36:56 AM
On 10-Oct-2018 JamesMc wrote:
>Or clip it with your PAS before pulling the rope up if you're worried.

But how do they unclip their PAS from between their legs one handed? Maybe they need a second PAS.

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There are 48 messages in this topic.

 

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