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Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

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Adam Ondra Bolting 9a Ground Up

egosan

27-Mar-2012
9:22:01 PM

Weird and more than a little contrived, but fck, wot the ell. He is trying something pretty cool. With the removable bolts ( http://www.climbtech.com/products/removable-anchors ) and a light enough drill, ground up onsights on steep limestone are sure to come.

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xmgq8x_to-tu-jeyty-nebylo-xia-af-adam-ondra-dolni-yleb_sport

Dr Nick

27-Mar-2012
10:42:00 PM

There were two drill holes in very close proximity there. I'm trying to work out whether one was a temporary rivet to hold him while he put the real bolt in, after hammering the hook so it'd stick better. Rap-bolting would probably be less damaging to the rock!

On the other hand, if you can drill from a stance you can clip from it.


cruze

28-Mar-2012
6:20:52 AM

Progression.

And wtf is with the guy up the tree?

[Now where's my zimmerframe?]


benjenga

28-Mar-2012
6:52:51 AM

Like watching paint dry.

Aidan

28-Mar-2012
9:11:00 AM

This strikes me as a rediculously retarded idea


Big G

28-Mar-2012
1:57:31 PM

Utter sh;te

Hugh

28-Mar-2012
2:19:01 PM

A new way to trash the crags with shoddy bolts placed under far too much pressure perhaps?

dalai

28-Mar-2012
11:43:25 PM

Even fast forwarded, this really is a pointless video and exercise. I guess when you dispatch 9a's in a couple of goes, you start thinking of ways to make the experience last a little longer?

Not like the wall looks to be impossible to access from the top given its height, so can't think of any other reasons why he would bother with this approach...

mothrfckr

29-Mar-2012
6:33:48 AM

CULTURALLY INSENSITIVE MOTHRFCKRS!

they dont allow bolting on top rope at that crag


Big G

29-Mar-2012
9:26:27 AM

On 29/03/2012 mothrfckr wrote:
>CULTURALLY INSENSITIVE MOTHRFCKRS!
>
>they dont allow bolting on top rope at that crag

still the most boring climbing video I've ever seen. Culturally insensitive to make such a poor quality and dull bum-shot video


Mistergribble

29-Mar-2012
1:12:03 PM

As Pete Livesey (the father of modern climbing) once observed, when you climb a new route, you're creating a product, so if you're throwing bolts around in inappropriate places, you're 'product' is tainted.

When putting in a bolt, you are changing the rock forever, so leave your ego at the bottom of the crag and place them sensibly, future generations may thank you.

< end of Gribble pathos>

kieranl

29-Mar-2012
2:09:19 PM

On 29/03/2012 Mistergribble wrote:
>... Pete Livesey (the father of modern climbing)
>
Big call Mistergribble, one might even say courageous.

Hagges

29-Mar-2012
5:17:04 PM

Doesn't removable bolts mean you also create extra holds for yourself? It looks like you can use the bolt holes as holds too anyway. It seems like another form of chipping. I hope this doesn't catch on.


sliamese

30-Mar-2012
6:36:48 AM

I think its a sweet way to keep things interesting for yourself and create a 'product' to be remembered. Sure he could prob rap bolt it, climb it a week later, then what? I imagine he's ticked everything else. I imagine 9a lines are few and far between, very fine line between impossible and improbable so good on him for getting imaginative to find new challenges in what could just be more of the mundane...

And how very contrived, im sure there'd be a track to the top of the crag if he just wanted to get up there!!

egosan

30-Mar-2012
2:30:56 PM

Turns out he couldn't go and rap bolt it. He explains on planet mountain that it is in a region where top down bolting is not acceptable to the locals.

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39344

Don't bother with the film unless you like watching sport climbers fall over and over and over and over....

Hagges

30-Mar-2012
4:57:37 PM

On 29/03/2012 kieranl wrote:
>On 29/03/2012 Mistergribble wrote:
>>... Pete Livesey (the father of modern climbing)
>>
>Big call Mistergribble, one might even say courageous.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3398

Here's an interesting read about the history of training for climbing. I agree Pete Livesey was the father of modern climbing, certainly in the UK anyway. However, his statement about tainting routes with bolts is hypocritical of him considering he himself has been accused several times for chipping extras holds onto routes.


MisterGribble

30-Mar-2012
8:21:36 PM

Do you want to know who invented the hand jam as well ?

Hagges

30-Mar-2012
8:29:40 PM

On 30/03/2012 MisterGribble wrote:
>Do you want to know who invented the hand jam as well ?
>

Of course! I know Joe Brown has been credited with it but he himself says it was around for a long time before him


MisterGribble

30-Mar-2012
9:02:31 PM

Well that spoilt that thread!

Hagges

30-Mar-2012
10:04:07 PM

Oh, sorry. Ha! I thought you were going to mention someone else. Have you ever watched Johnny Dawes "Best Forgotten Art"? There's some ultra classic climbing footage from the 40's and 50's

There are 26 messages in this topic.