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7 pitch sports linkup in the Grose

mikl law

29-Sep-2008
12:07:29 PM

I did the epic undercling roof at Mt banks with Neil Monteath last week.Tricycle (because of how high your feet have to be) 22

The crack is an awesome undercling, the roof is about 13m, the crack is 220 mm wide, and very smooth on the walls and crack, quite a classic pumpy 22 pitch, leading to another 8 pitches of choss and doddle above.

Best to climb it then rap 40m to the deck and do Pestosterone (22,22,23,23,22) to complete a perfect pump.
The guide to these areas on Mt Banks is available on Chockstone, the guide is called Groseness.

wallwombat

29-Sep-2008
1:48:56 PM

Looks like you could get a good head jam rest going there.

ademmert

29-Sep-2008
2:34:03 PM

Looks awesome!!!

mikl law

29-Sep-2008
6:20:33 PM

On 29/09/2008 wallwombat wrote:
>Looks like you could get a good head jam rest going there.

Tried to get the knee-cam-no-hander but was too busy doing the next shuffle hand shuffle foot to stop and technique it.

Wollemi

29-Sep-2008
6:31:36 PM

Good work!

What do you protect a 220 mm roof with?! My no. 5 Quadcam wouldn't suit - and I only
have one.

EDIT: Need new clearer LCD screen... :(

drdeviousii

29-Sep-2008
6:42:59 PM

did monty change his name when he moved to the gluies?

muki

29-Sep-2008
8:42:08 PM

Hey mikl, those look kinda like bolts under the roof, did you leave the big gear in the car to save weight.

nmonteith

29-Sep-2008
8:58:18 PM

The locals confiscated our trad gear at the park entrance.

rod

30-Sep-2008
3:40:48 AM

Thank you Mikl and Neil for sending something new that's visually inspirational and posting...all the more stoke for us to dream! I'll get on it and get pumped for sure.

7 pitch sports linkup in the Grose v Big Whippers: 7 posts v 50...go figure.

evanbb

30-Sep-2008
6:34:50 AM

It does look awesome Mikl. First trad ascent still there for the taking then I suppose? I've been trying to figure out how to make some 220mm tri-cams or bongs. Should be fun.

From the first pic you sent it looked like there's a good belay under the roof. Am I right?

chris

30-Sep-2008
8:12:13 AM

hey guys.... are they carrots? Do we have to fiddle on plates while bicycling the feet up the wall? Looks exciting!!

mikl law

30-Sep-2008
8:28:25 AM

On 30/09/2008 chris wrote:
>hey guys.... are they carrots? Do we have to fiddle on plates while bicycling
>the feet up the wall? Looks exciting!!

Clip the first with a bolt plate and then drop wires on them as you go out till it eases. I still haven't rigged up boltplates and chains on the rap station at the end so leave tat on the the 2 good (out of 4 - don't ask, the rock there is sooo much harder than it shoudl be) bolts

mikl law

30-Sep-2008
8:30:08 AM

On 30/09/2008 evanbb wrote:
>It does look awesome Mikl. First trad ascent still there for the taking
>then I suppose? I've been trying to figure out how to make some 220mm tri-cams
>or bongs. Should be fun.
>
>From the first pic you sent it looked like there's a good belay under
>the roof. Am I right?

I was thinking tube chocks, then thinking of fixing (gluing) them in if i did, then decided that botls were more sensible.

Yes there's a perfect belay ledge under the roof

fish boy

30-Sep-2008
12:21:57 PM

On 30/09/2008 evanbb wrote:
I've been trying to figure out how to make some...220mm...bongs. Should be fun.

Yup.

pmonks

30-Sep-2008
2:13:01 PM

Any chance of anything going up left or right of the corner? The rock on the orange face to the right looks great, if a little ledgey down low.

rod

30-Sep-2008
3:38:35 PM

On 30/09/2008 pmonks wrote:
>Any chance of anything going up left or right of the corner? The rock
>on the orange face to the right looks great, if a little ledgey down low.

i keep wondering the same thing when i look at that pic. the arete on the right into a headwall finish keeps drawing my eye, looks awesome.

nmonteith

30-Sep-2008
8:48:53 PM

On 30/09/2008 pmonks wrote:
>Any chance of anything going up left or right of the corner? The rock
>on the orange face to the right looks great, if a little ledgey down low.

The right arete isn't worth the bother. Its blank and undercut at the start, then once it gets good it get too juggy quickly. The left wall looks good - a bit blank and needs a brush perhaps? Rock quality is top-notch under the moss.

There are 17 messages in this topic.