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Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 1 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 74
Author
TR - Mt Buffalo Southside Gorge FA

bigchris
18-Feb-2018
5:31:16 PM
Hello my fellow chockstoners,

For those of you who have read my previous trip report, know that I have a love for the wide. Wide you say? Yes, wide. Follow along if you will....

As many of you know i'm a giant hack. While this is the case, I do love climbing wide stuff a lot, and I also like to do stuff that is dangerous and go where other people sometimes don't dare. My story of the weekend starts at the chalet of Mt Buffalo. I'd been eying of a climb for a very long time. Once again, seeing a picture on chockstone with a long conversation attached to it got the better of me and my wife, so of we went!

Here is the chockstone photo.

Screen_Shot_2017_11_21_at_2_31_24_pm

I give you Typhon! I tried to think of a name that matched the area.

"Typhon was known as the ďFather of All Monsters.Ē He was birthed from Gaia (the earth) and Tartarus (the depths of hell). He was said to have been the most ferocious creature ever to roam the earth. Typhon was massive. It was said that when he stood upright, his head brushed against the stars."

After speaking to the powers that be (Mike Law, Muki, M9 and others), we came to the realisation that there was a giant off width on the south side of the gorge that hadn't been climbed (but talked about a lot). With lots of information (caveat: no idea of accuracy of said information) we set off to rappel down Bodeacea. This appeared to be sketchy a/f. We had to get down Bodeacea and climb through a hole which was more like dodgy caving/crevassing. No no no no noooooooooooo.

Back up to the top we went. We ended up rappelling down Caligula to get to the belay, made a semi hanging belay, traversed into the hole, set up a new belay on some giant chockstones and I started to climb out. I was armed with multiple 5s and 6s and a Valley Giant.

I crawled through the roof of the bottom V groove and placed a 6 and then around to the front of the climb and started to make my way up. I placed the Valley Giant and realised that it was the only piece that was going to fit, and I didn't feel like accidentally blowing the cam while walking it up and then falling all of the way down Caligula and probably dying. I'd climbed about 1/3 of the crack, so I ended up reversing all the way down back to the belay and Philly and I climbed out to the top via Caligula. We had some lunch and gave up.
PS: The corner of Caligula 2nd pitch is freak nasty!

Here is the photo of me down climbing back to the belay.

IMG 9222


While she was finishing eating, I had a look around to see if there was a different way to access the climb, and I found a magic little hidden hole which Mike Law told me about. M9 and I were thinking that I was going to have to climb up and exit either right or left (making a super sketchy traverse or possible even aiding through the roof), but you can actually crawl right through the back to make a belay on ultra sketchy rock. So we did that and I lowered down right into the cave, cleaning the entire climb with a nut tool. The chockstones that are in the photo aren't actually chockstones, they're massive clumps of dirt with trees coming out of them, to which I removed them all. Or at least I thought I had, and when I started climbing out, I basically took half of the Mount with me down the back of my shirt and undies.

Here is a photo of me stacking the top section before pulling over the lip.

IMG 9227


I kind of climbed it with my right leg bent and jammed in, my left leg heel and toe jammed, a right arm chicken wing and my left fist kind of jammed against my chest or holding on the corner. It's quite the beast, but if you move slowly and surely it can be done. Philly had a wow of a time (read: crap) but had a big off width moment where she finally realised how to climb that particular size.

I'll claim the FA, but not the FFA as i'm going to buy more VG's and return to try and work it and get it done. I don't feel that Big Bros are appropriate as the walls are a bit weird on the inside and the chance of dying would be high if placed incorrectly. I guess it goes at around 24/25ish? I will report back with more send details if I can get it done free! Is it appropriate to red tag for 12 months? While trying to send my previous project i've messed up my knee, and torqued it a bit on this climb to reveal more pain (who'd have thought that OWs would mess you up?) so i'm gonna get that checked out this week before I go back.

We tried to get as many photos as we could but it's a pretty sketchy place. I've got some good video of the approach etc, so I'll try and get that up here also.

If any chocky keyboard warriors feel the need to flame on, go for your life ;)

Miguel75
18-Feb-2018
6:16:22 PM
On 18-Feb-2018 bigchris wrote:
SNIP
>If any chocky keyboard warriors feel the need to flame on, go for your life ;)

Given Iím a bigger hack I feel itís my right to cut you down for trying something cool. You suck, but Philly doesnít! ;)

bigchris
18-Feb-2018
6:42:40 PM
On 18-Feb-2018 Miguel75 wrote:
>On 18-Feb-2018 bigchris wrote:
>SNIP
>>If any chocky keyboard warriors feel the need to flame on, go for your
>life ;)
>
>Given Iím a bigger hack I feel itís my right to cut you down for trying
>something cool. You suck, but Philly doesnít! ;)

On the scale of awesomeness she is close to 5 and I'm definitely a solid 2 :D
kieranl
18-Feb-2018
6:44:53 PM
I think you could red-tag it for a decade with no worries. Great that you're going for it. A lot of us have fantasised about that line over the years but have failed to go anywhere near it.

Does Philly wonder why she saved your carcass on Angels when you take on her on these excursions?

bigchris
18-Feb-2018
6:48:15 PM
On 18-Feb-2018 kieranl wrote:
>I think you could red-tag it for a decade with no worries. Great that you're
>going for it. A lot of us have fantasised about that line over the years
>but have failed to go anywhere near it.
>
>Does Philly wonder why she saved your carcass on Angels when you take
>on her on these excursions?

Hahaha! At least we all know who the total badass in the relationship is :D
rightarmbad
19-Feb-2018
6:45:11 AM
Please fill me in on what it is that would make big bros fail?

bigchris
19-Feb-2018
8:39:45 AM
Good questions. It's not parrallel inside for most of it, making big bros a poor choice.

On a side note, if i'm leading it, I'd like to not die.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
19-Feb-2018
9:20:37 AM
A good TR, and thanks for posting up feedback. I look forward to the next chapter!

On 19-Feb-2018 bigchris wrote:
>Good questions. It's not parrallel inside for most of it, making big bros a poor choice.
>(snip)

It sounds to me like you need more experience with Bigbro's to gain the 'faith', as although they work fine in parallel cracks, they work even better in uneven ones(!), particularly when their ends are placed in depression undulations or above rugosities.

Post edit:
Historical photo of Keith Bell on Caligula, ... adjacent Typhon,... (photo by Peter Watling), added now...
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

bigchris
19-Feb-2018
10:43:26 AM

>It sounds to me like you need more experience with Bigbro's to gain the
>'faith', as although they work fine in parallel cracks, they work even
>better in uneven ones(!), particularly when their ends are placed in depression
>undulations or above rugosities.

Valley Giants for me! I'll buy more as Big-bros are poo in crumbly rock :D I've placed and fallen on a few and in this crack they're not optimal in my opinion.

ajfclark
19-Feb-2018
10:50:51 AM
It's going to be hard enough to get people to repeat as is, but maybe if you bolt it...
Chriph
19-Feb-2018
10:55:41 AM
Nice work buddy! Looks like a future classic line :)

If only you could combine your existing cams into one mega-cam, like a cam-Voltron :-D

p.s. very cute how you talk Philly up ;)


Duang Daunk
19-Feb-2018
11:39:01 AM
On 19-Feb-2018 Chriph wrote:
>If only you could combine your existing cams into one mega-cam, like a cam-Voltron :-D
>

Earth calling bro TimP, current high priest of Aussie climbing inventiveness, Chocky Chriph just found your next project!



On 19-Feb-2018 ajfclark wrote:
>It's going to be hard enough to get people to repeat as is, but maybe if
>you bolt it...

Good one bro, and if he needs nuts to hold the hangers on he can use yours!
Ď8-0

bigchris
19-Feb-2018
12:17:24 PM
On 19-Feb-2018 ajfclark wrote:
>It's going to be hard enough to get people to repeat as is, but maybe if
>you bolt it...



Dude, I hear what your saying. I'm not anti bolts in this case because as far as I know, there is only one VG in the country that fits into the crack and it's mine. I'd like to make it accessible and not dangerous.

Jayford4321
19-Feb-2018
12:24:29 PM
On 19-Feb-2018 bigchris wrote:
>On 19-Feb-2018 ajfclark wrote:
>>It's going to be hard enough to get people to repeat as is, but maybe
>if
>>you bolt it...
>
>
>
>Dude, I hear what your saying. I'm not anti bolts in this case because
>as far as I know, there is only one VG in the country that fits into the
>crack and it's mine. I'd like to make it accessible and not dangerous.


Anotha vote 4 bigbros ova boltz.
Iíll lend U some ruFoiís or a T spoon of cement if itíll help.
Did U C tha pic somewhere on chocky by simonC of tha dude on Monarch near Ur route?
Itz same width an 3 timez longa , an he iz doing it effectively sanz pro by comparo Ur ascent.
Full markz tho 4 cleanin up tha leftovas but keep tha histerical precedent set by real climberz prolly B4 U were born.

bigchris
19-Feb-2018
12:40:22 PM
On 19-Feb-2018 gnaguts wrote:
>On 19-Feb-2018 bigchris wrote:
>>On 19-Feb-2018 ajfclark wrote:
>>>It's going to be hard enough to get people to repeat as is, but maybe
>>if
>>>you bolt it...
>>
>>
>>
>>Dude, I hear what your saying. I'm not anti bolts in this case because
>>as far as I know, there is only one VG in the country that fits into
>the
>>crack and it's mine. I'd like to make it accessible and not dangerous.
>
>
>Anotha vote 4 bigbros ova boltz.
>Iíll lend U some ruFoiís or a T spoon of cement if itíll help.
>Did U C tha pic somewhere on chocky by simonC of tha dude on Monarch near
>Ur route?
> Itz same width an 3 timez longa , an he iz doing it effectively sanz
>pro by comparo Ur ascent.
>Full markz tho 4 cleanin up tha leftovas but keep tha histerical precedent
>set by real climberz prolly B4 U were born.


I don't understand the language that you're using. Can you perhaps use english?

Miguel75
19-Feb-2018
1:13:17 PM
This one;

http://www.onsight.com.au/product/monarch/

bigchris
19-Feb-2018
1:19:21 PM
On 19-Feb-2018 Miguel75 wrote:
>This one;
>
>http://www.onsight.com.au/product/monarch/

Haha yeah I know. He talks like my year 7s so what he says doesn't hold any weight.

If I need to bolt, i'll bolt. If I can protect it and not die on gear, I will. I'm not interested in getting Philly or me hurt. I'm having a private convo on email with the powers that be about it.

Jayford4321
19-Feb-2018
1:32:42 PM
On 19-Feb-2018 bigchris wrote:
>On 19-Feb-2018 Miguel75 wrote:
>>This one;

Thankz. Thatz tha 1 , shoe dude.

>Haha yeah I know. He talks like my year 7s so what he says doesn't hold
>any weight.
>

An tha chorus goes . . .
Hay teacha. Leave dem kidz alone!
All in all Ur just a , notha brick in tha wall . . .

>If I need to bolt, i'll bolt. If I can protect it and not die on gear,
>I will. I'm not interested in getting Philly or me hurt. I'm having a private
>convo on email with the powers that be about it.

Good 2C ur conferring with tha precedent setterz.
U might also note the castigation tha otha dudes got 4 suggesting bolting it , on tha shred where U got tha pic from 2 start this shred.

bigchris
19-Feb-2018
2:56:26 PM

>>If I need to bolt, i'll bolt. If I can protect it and not die on gear,
>>I will. I'm not interested in getting Philly or me hurt. I'm having a
>private
>>convo on email with the powers that be about it.
>
>Good 2C ur conferring with tha precedent setterz.
>U might also note the castigation tha otha dudes got 4 suggesting bolting
>it , on tha shred where U got tha pic from 2 start this shred.


I appreciate that the previous thread states that people don't like bolts. I also am not too worried about what people say, except for the people i'm talking to, which are heralded as some of Australias premier climbers.

ajfclark
20-Feb-2018
5:24:45 AM
I was just shit stirring.

I'd looked at that thing from across the way several times and wondered why it hadn't been done yet.

Can you climb Caligula into it?

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There are 74 messages in this topic.

 

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