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Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60
Author
TR - Mt Buffalo Southside Gorge FA

bigchris
20-Feb-2018
5:49:20 AM
On 20-Feb-2018 ajfclark wrote:
>I was just shit stirring.
>
>I'd looked at that thing from across the way several times and wondered
>why it hadn't been done yet.
>
>Can you climb Caligula into it?

Yes you can, however its a giant pain in the arse to get into. Rappelling from the top is much easier.
kieranl
20-Feb-2018
6:22:40 AM
On 20-Feb-2018 bigchris wrote:
>On 20-Feb-2018 ajfclark wrote:
>>I was just shit stirring.
>>
>>I'd looked at that thing from across the way several times and wondered
>>why it hadn't been done yet.
>>
>>Can you climb Caligula into it?
>
>Yes you can, however its a giant pain in the arse to get into.

I kinda thought that was the point of the whole thing :)

Jayford4321
20-Feb-2018
9:19:08 AM
On 19-Feb-2018 bigchris wrote:
>
>>>If I need to bolt, i'll bolt. If I can protect it and not die on gear,
>>>I will. I'm not interested in getting Philly or me hurt. I'm having
>a
>>private
>>>convo on email with the powers that be about it.
>>
>>Good 2C ur conferring with tha precedent setterz.
>>U might also note the castigation tha otha dudes got 4 suggesting bolting
>>it , on tha shred where U got tha pic from 2 start this shred.
>
>
>I appreciate that the previous thread states that people don't like bolts.
>I also am not too worried about what people say, except for the people
>i'm talking to, which are heralded as some of Australias premier climbers.

Histerical precedents also include some shocker stuff ups by premier climberz so thatz not tha B all and end all of tha only way 2 go about it.
Anotha case example was well known premier climba with anotha dude retroing a belay on a classic all time advencha route a little while bak in tha worriedbungles. His premiership dint save him from public outrage on this site or his boltz from being chopped.

bigchris
20-Feb-2018
10:55:26 AM

>Histerical precedents also include some shocker stuff ups by premier climberz
>so thatz not tha B all and end all of tha only way 2 go about it.
>Anotha case example was well known premier climba with anotha dude retroing
>a belay on a classic all time advencha route a little while bak in tha
>worriedbungles. His premiership dint save him from public outrage on this
>site or his boltz from being chopped.

Look, I feel as if you're starting to try a little harder. You're almost there. Bolts end in an 's' and not a 'z'.


Jayford4321
20-Feb-2018
3:00:39 PM
2 thingz.
1. When U gunna do Monarch?
an 2. If U do , R U gunna do it in tha same great style as that dude in tha pic , or R U gunna retro bolt(no s) it like Ur proposin 4 f--- , err , Filly sake?

bigchris
20-Feb-2018
3:07:41 PM
On 20-Feb-2018 gnaguts wrote:
>2 thingz.
>1. When U gunna do Monarch?
>an 2. If U do , R U gunna do it in tha same great style as that dude in
>tha pic , or R U gunna retro bolt(no s) it like Ur proposin 4 f--- , err
>, Filly sake?


What makes you think I haven't already done it? ;) ;) ;)

bigchris
20-Feb-2018
3:09:23 PM
On 20-Feb-2018 kieranl wrote:
>On 20-Feb-2018 bigchris wrote:
>>On 20-Feb-2018 ajfclark wrote:
>>>I was just shit stirring.
>>>
>>>I'd looked at that thing from across the way several times and wondered
>>>why it hadn't been done yet.
>>>
>>>Can you climb Caligula into it?
>>
>>Yes you can, however its a giant pain in the arse to get into.
>
>I kinda thought that was the point of the whole thing :)

Haha touche :D

Jayford4321
20-Feb-2018
3:14:47 PM
On 20-Feb-2018 bigchris wrote:
>On 20-Feb-2018 gnaguts wrote:
>>2 thingz.
>>1. When U gunna do Monarch?
>>an 2. If U do , R U gunna do it in tha same great style as that dude
>in
>>tha pic , or R U gunna retro bolt(no s) it like Ur proposin 4 f--- ,
>err
>>, Filly sake?
>
>
>What makes you think I haven't already done it? ;) ;) ;)


Anybody that haz already done it should oughta crow about it in a trip report becoz itz a significant achievement.
I C ya crowin but not about that yet , so ima callin U out.

Jayford4321
20-Feb-2018
3:23:14 PM
On 20-Feb-2018 bigchris wrote:
>On 20-Feb-2018 ajfclark wrote:
>>I was just shit stirring.
>>
>>I'd looked at that thing from across the way several times and wondered
>>why it hadn't been done yet.
>>
>>Can you climb Caligula into it?
>
>Yes you can, however its a giant pain in the arse to get into. Rappelling
>from the top is much easier.

ayjayclarky , Ur Xperience of buff is lacking if U dont get Ur act on2 Caligula , az itz up there wiff Maharaji , Peroxi Blonde , Banana etc. U get my drift?

Our m8 bigbroChris iz sellin ya short by tellin ya access 2 hiz line is tha short cut wot he done , as tha sensible ground up ascent is by Caligula.

bigchris
20-Feb-2018
3:44:29 PM

>Anybody that haz already done it should oughta crow about it in a trip
>report becoz itz a significant achievement.
>I C ya crowin but not about that yet , so ima callin U out.

Cool story bro :D

Jayford4321
21-Feb-2018
9:45:03 AM
On 20-Feb-2018 bigchris wrote:
>
>>Anybody that haz already done Monarch should oughta crow about it in a trip
>>report becoz itz a significant achievement.
>>I C ya crowin but not about that yet , so ima callin U out.
>
>Cool story bro :D

Pics or it didnt happen.
:D 2U2
mikllaw
2-Apr-2018
10:05:06 AM
Progress report from BigChris:-

"Got the cave start! It was easier than I thought. Then I snapped the leg loop off of my harness!!!! "

bigchris
2-Apr-2018
1:40:08 PM
SENT!!!

I'll post some pics later on but it was a burlfest. My harness will literally never be the same again. Thanks to Kriph for the belay!

Have at it!


bigchris
3-Apr-2018
9:15:05 AM
So back at home after a really fun weekend with my climbing buddy, Handsome Chris. I'm BigChris because i'm tall. He's Handsome Chris because he's not conventionally attractive :D :D :D

I gave it a go on Friday, but after an unfortunate harness leg loop snapping incident I had to lower down and make a bogan-harness (mike law style) out of a sling to get out! It was actually pretty scary but no one died so all is good!

We climbed at different spots around Buffalo on Saturday and Sunday, The Cathedral and down at Chalwell Galleries where I have found a new project to throw myself in (Cinderella Crack). Thanks for the heads up on that Mr Law!

Here are some picture of the FFA send of Typhon. The climb itself was all over the place and I was scared out of my mind but managed to keep it together for the send. Coming out of the cave was really fun, and if you're skinnier than me (most climbers) then you may find it easier to get into, but have less to hold onto because you can't jam your leg in under the roof!

The hardest section for me was to go from basically where it gets a little thinner at the top, because I couldn't quite chicken wing it (size 6 for me) and my legs were still in the fatter section, making it difficult to get a decent leg lock off while I had a heel and toe jam. It's slightly overhanging so you just wanna fall out all of the time!

I'm actually going to have to go to the docs and get my right knee and shoulder checked out because i think i've done some damage but all in good fun (pants-pooping fun!).

******************
No Idea on the grade. I just called it 25 on thecrag.com. You can call it what you like, however, until it gets repeated, and someone calls it something else, 25 it is! It's an off width/chimney so it's going to be size dependant.

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/buffalo/the-gorge-south-side/route/1679779854

There is an excellent set of bolts in the top for top roping fun and if you need direct instructions on how to get to them feel free to call me. The easiest way to get there if you know the place, is to find the Caligula top-out, crawl up corner wall behind the tree to the ledge (approx two meters of scramble) and then crawl through the wombat hole with your gear and follow the light of the crack above.

Flame on, Flamers!
******************

Here is a picture of the approach to get into the top of the cave. We had to push the gear through (or drop it through from the top).

20180330 112121

Here is me sitting in the V-shaped cave at the top. Handsome Chris is positioned with the camera where you crawl through from. I'm facing North (out of the cave) for perspective on how it looks from inside.

20180330 112225

Here I am on the FFA send! Handsome Chris is on the Agrippa Belay ledge. I traversed the slab, crawled into the cave, and climbed out!

20180402 110513

Here is a picture of my next project, Cinderella, located in the Chalwell Galleries. I don't think it has seen a second ascent, and I'll try an do it without the boxing gloves described in the guide!

20180401 102452
chriph
3-Apr-2018
1:38:42 PM
Does that mean I'm unconventionally attractive??
😅

bigchris
3-Apr-2018
2:05:49 PM
On 3-Apr-2018 chriph wrote:
>Does that mean I'm unconventionally attractive??
>😅

Yeah, thats what I was trying to say ;)

Miguel75
3-Apr-2018
8:55:31 PM
On 3-Apr-2018 chriph wrote:
>Does that mean I'm unconventionally attractive??
>😅

So hot right now!

bigchris
4-Apr-2018
9:17:36 PM
On 3-Apr-2018 Miguel75 wrote:
>On 3-Apr-2018 chriph wrote:
>>Does that mean I'm unconventionally attractive??
>>😅
>
>So hot right now!

He was after belaying me on the Agrippa ledge for an hour and I had to chuck my camelbak down to him :D
Chriph
5-Apr-2018
7:46:26 AM
bahahaha - I was thinking the same, but didn't want it to sound like I was whinging :-D

Miguel75
13-Apr-2018
6:18:29 PM
Super stoked for your BigChris. Itís a proud line and youíve done well. Does it need four bolts? Given youíre the only person to have climbed it, Iíll take your word for it. In a perfect world probably not but in our world...

For all those who are happy to bang on about the desecration these bolts represent, youíve had 50+ years to get on it and climb it in a style that you consider worthy; BigBros, sans BigBros; chunks of wood; Bongs; really big soup cans; with pants; sans pants... Lots of people have seen this line and weíre either too scared to try or maybe they just couldnít be bothered. Chris was bothered enough to obsess about it, clean it, work it and send it! He also stood up and and explained why he thought bolts were the better option when he could have bolted it like a cowardly sausage in the night.

MartyM and Jay, you guys are happy to have a casual dig about the number, and placements, of the bolts but have either of you tried it? Once you two go climb it a-la Mark Davies, in the pic of Monarch, then you can pontificate all you like;)






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There are 60 messages in this topic.

 

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