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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 41
Author
Climbing Broccoli

Vwills
3-Jan-2018
4:30:54 AM
The thing I didn't like about smoke bluffs was the crowds, although June turned out to be a lot more favourable than August for getting on routes. Sounds like that won't be a problem here :) may be worth a stop over on our next trip to Vic.
Since I got my Ocun crack gloves my enjoyment of cracks has increased substantially.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
3-Jan-2018
1:44:30 PM
On 20-Dec-2017 Stugang wrote:
>Nice pic. Reminds me of an old pic Eddie showed me of a gerbil trying to
>escape his butt.
>
>Just go for the light little buddy.

Been thinking about this for a bit... and have decided to satisfy my curiosity...
Whatís so special about Edís Ďgerbilsí compared to your own?

PS: mine are well trained and donít try to escape!
Wendy
4-Jan-2018
6:09:02 AM
On 31-Dec-2017 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 27-Dec-2017 Wendy wrote:
>>Blah blah, Victoriacentric crap.
>
>I don't even know if I tried to get you to come up to Billy Billy, could
>barely get you to go to Booroomba. Obviously it isn't something you'd drive
>from Nati for. I thought the tongue in cheekiness would be apparent to
>everyone.

Of course you have! Everytime I'm on my way to or from qld for the past 3 years.
>
>>I could just turn up at squamish and head for the
>>smoke bluffs for a much better version of climbing broccoli with 2 second
>>access and a lot more routes. Or the valley bottom crags in Yosemite.
>
>Yes, you've got me there.......Billy Billy is actually not as good as
>Squamish or Yosemite. Maybe I should have explicitly mentioned that.
>>
>>(c) Buffalo is between me and Billy Billy.
>
>And? How many good, clean crack pitches are there at Buffalo? 20? 30?
>It's a giant blob of disconnected mossy shit with a couple of good things
>sprinkled around. Canberra has more good granite pitches than Buffalo,
>no contest.

Hmm, I enjoyed the stuff we did around canberra, but i'd still go back to Buffalo over it. Given that Buffalo is much higher on the international and national climbing ticklist than Canberra, I'm guessing most people agree. Of course, if some lazy wannabe Canberracentric guidebook author actually got around to finishing the new guide, there might be something to start promoting Canberra with.

>>Incidently, Valle di Mello is massively over rated. Don't bother climbing
>>your broccoli just to go there. Just take your bouldering pad.
>
>What long routes did you climb? The ten pitch stuff up high is mega. Of
>course you wouldn't fly over there for the single pitch stuff next to the
>road.

Something like Kundalini? Some mystical serpenty, hippyish name. It was ok. But it had a lot of wandering between the good pitches. The long stuff around Chamonix shits all over it. No contest.

>>
>>Damo is frothing about remote microroutes. Did he say 7m???? Maybe I
>should
>>just take my bouldering pad!
>
>Yeah, there's a few silly short things, but they're cracks so there was
>no reason not to climb them. With that said though, a 7m route at Billy
>Billy usually has 5m of sustained climbing (the other 2m is the bit below
>your hands when you pull on).....which is more real climbing than half
>the routes at Araps, right?

Simey recently wanted me to call the new route we did Wendy's Mega Route. Because it was a 7m pitch. It was a crack though, so no reason not to climb it? I'm sure he can come up with some suitable names for your 7m megaroutes as well.
>
>I only posted this up because I felt like a total hypocrite bitching about
>lack of content on Chocky while not providing anything constructive. The
>only Chocky people I expect to see up there are Vanessa and Dave, because
>they actually make the effort to travel down to Booroomba (Hi Vanessa,
>hit me up if you want a guided tour when it cools down)

Posting something constructive? Are you feeling ok?

Eduardo Slabofvic
4-Jan-2018
7:38:29 AM
On 3-Jan-2018 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 20-Dec-2017 Stugang wrote:
>>Nice pic. Reminds me of an old pic Eddie showed me of a gerbil trying
>to
>>escape his butt.
>>
>>Just go for the light little buddy.
>
>Been thinking about this for a bit... and have decided to satisfy my curiosity...
>Whatís so special about Edís Ďgerbilsí compared to your own?
>
>PS: mine are well trained and donít try to escape!

His gerbils don't want to come out. They like it in there. So much space to move around
One Day Hero
4-Jan-2018
12:14:07 PM
On 4-Jan-2018 Wendy wrote:
>Of course you have! Everytime I'm on my way to or from qld for the past
>3 years.

Yeah, but what other times apart from every time you're in the vicinity?

>Given that Buffalo is much higher on the international
>and national climbing ticklist than Canberra, I'm guessing most people
>agree.

Did Henry Barber go to Mt. Buffalo?

>Of course, if some lazy wannabe Canberracentric guidebook author
>actually got around to finishing the new guide, there might be something
>to start promoting Canberra with.

We're trying


>Something like Kundalini? Some mystical serpenty, hippyish name. It was
>ok. But it had a lot of wandering between the good pitches.

Did you do Luna Naciente? Anything on the 300m wall above Kundalini? You know, the obvious mega-looking bits of rock.

>The long stuff
>around Chamonix shits all over it. No contest.

The stuff where you have to pay $100/day to ride the gondola, and probably another $150 to stay in a hotel room now that all the scummy climber sleeping options have been stepped on? Or are we time-travelling back to 1998? Or are we all rich and famous now? I'm confused.

>Simey recently wanted me to call the new route we did Wendy's Mega Route.
>Because it was a 7m pitch. It was a crack though, so no reason not to climb
>it?

It's all relative. I really like Pebbles and Bam Bam, and Hellspite and whatever the one next to it is called.........you wouldn't really bother with piddly 7m things at Ben Lomond though, would you? Is Wendy's Mega Route going to make the next edition of the guide? I have a bit of an unfair advantage there......all of my routes are going in the guide :)

>Posting something constructive? Are you feeling ok?

I'm feeling better now, thanks. How's Eds arse-gerbil doing?

gnaguts
4-Jan-2018
12:22:19 PM
On 31-Dec-2017 widewetandslippery wrote:
>ACT granite is great, I spent a spell climbing down there getting the
>bus from Sydney and well worth it. Only boulder local now really but the
>dividing range granite belt has gems, Eugowra, Wyangla etc, don't need
>to worry about these as secret crags, no one will try to go there.

Otha than once was a wall wombat an mikl.


Odius writed:
>How Ed's arse-gerbil doing?

Ima surprized he still got the infestation.
Ed, I give U the tip. Put a mirror on tha ground an when they come out to attack tha invaders that they seeing , stomp on them.
Dont break tha mirror though , cos thatz seven yrs bad luck if U do.
widewetandslippery
4-Jan-2018
1:35:15 PM
wombat and I looked at lachlan granite on the weekend
widewetandslippery
4-Jan-2018
1:42:56 PM
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=L8BhhR4PC7Y

Eduardo Slabofvic
4-Jan-2018
1:50:18 PM
On 4-Jan-2018 gnaguts wrote:
>>Ed, I give U the tip. Put a mirror on tha ground an when they come out
>to attack tha invaders that they seeing , stomp on them.
>Dont break tha mirror though , cos thatz seven yrs bad luck if U do.
>

Does that work for you?
dalai
4-Jan-2018
5:17:05 PM
On 4-Jan-2018 gnaguts wrote:
>On 31-Dec-2017 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>ACT granite is great, I spent a spell climbing down there getting the
>>bus from Sydney and well worth it. Only boulder local now really but
>the
>>dividing range granite belt has gems, Eugowra, Wyangla etc, don't need
>>to worry about these as secret crags, no one will try to go there.
>
>Otha than once was a wall wombat an mikl.
>
>
>Odius writed:
>>How Ed's arse-gerbil doing?
>
>Ima surprized he still got the infestation.
>Ed, I give U the tip. Put a mirror on tha ground an when they come out
>to attack tha invaders that they seeing , stomp on them.
>Dont break tha mirror though , cos thatz seven yrs bad luck if U do.
>

And then we wonder why more people don't post...
kieranl
4-Jan-2018
5:42:11 PM
On 4-Jan-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 4-Jan-2018 Wendy wrote:

>>Given that Buffalo is much higher on the international
>>and national climbing ticklist than Canberra, I'm guessing most people
>>agree.
>
>Did Henry Barber go to Mt. Buffalo?
>

Of course. Freed Cacaphonic Crack, which sorta fits with the short-climb topic, and 2nd free ascent of Monarch.

gnaguts
5-Jan-2018
8:28:39 AM
On 4-Jan-2018 dalai wrote:
>And then we wonder why more people don't post...

Daliaah , U not following the namesake way and joining in shred hijack too? This iz odius the former #1 shred shredder happening here , and we just giving back some of his karma wiff OT banter.

My frend Ed writed;
>Does that work for you?

Yep , been gerbil free for yearz now.
BTW it was simes who gave me tha tip afta 1st hand experience. He reckons Koochung is prolly where they come from an thatz wot makes it such a dangerouser route.
Strange that he told me an not U.
R U still upsetting him wiff complaining bout Ur routes being left out of The Book?

@wide
U R aware R U knot , that boldering routes don't have end zones? - unless U hiballing one of odius's 7m microroutes.
I think he iz vying wiff Tasgeez for Gerbil Route Of Tha Year , wiff his Hillywood or Sth Esky donkey routes vs ACT Bilby Bilby routes.
Wendy
6-Jan-2018
8:48:51 PM
On 4-Jan-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 4-Jan-2018 Wendy wrote:
>>Of course you have! Everytime I'm on my way to or from qld for the past
>>3 years.
>
>Yeah, but what other times apart from every time you're in the vicinity?

Canberra is a 3 hour detour from anywhere in the vicinity i've been ...
>
>>Given that Buffalo is much higher on the international
>>and national climbing ticklist than Canberra, I'm guessing most people
>>agree.
>
>Did Henry Barber go to Mt. Buffalo?

Do you have to go back to 1976 to find the last significant international visitor to Canberra?

>
>>Of course, if some lazy wannabe Canberracentric guidebook author
>>actually got around to finishing the new guide, there might be something
>>to start promoting Canberra with.
>
>We're trying

So's Simey trying to update his Grampians guide. And his 100 classic climbs of Australia. And ACIA instruction manual. Trying can take a long time. It can get quite trying.
>
>
>>Something like Kundalini? Some mystical serpenty, hippyish name. It was
>>ok. But it had a lot of wandering between the good pitches.
>
>Did you do Luna Naciente? Anything on the 300m wall above Kundalini? You
>know, the obvious mega-looking bits of rock.

Oh the one decent bit of cliff that has one decent route on it that you have to climb the not so great Kundalini to get to? No, because we had been burnt out by the averageness of Kundalini.

>
>>The long stuff
>>around Chamonix shits all over it. No contest.
>
>The stuff where you have to pay $100/day to ride the gondola, and probably
>another $150 to stay in a hotel room now that all the scummy climber sleeping
>options have been stepped on? Or are we time-travelling back to 1998? Or
>are we all rich and famous now? I'm confused.

I'm not rich, but i'm sort of notorious. Does that count? Seriously, I stayed in a squat in argentiere for 3 seasons 2005-7. Paid normal camping fees in 2008. Caught a few cable cars at about 20euro each, but you can walk if you really want. stayed in alpine huts for a mere 6 euro a night, but you could suffer through camping in the snow if you really want. In return, everything I did on the Blatiere was amazing. Same with the envers. the peigne, the valley blanche and the brevant also offer more than their fair share of amazing routes. Then there was switzerland. really, valle di mello was the last place I'd bother going back to after 5 seasons in europe.
>
>>Simey recently wanted me to call new route we did Wendy's Mega Route.
>>Because it was a 7m pitch. It was a crack though, so no reason not to
>climbe
>>it?
>
>It's all relative. I really like Pebbles and Bam Bam, and Hells pite and
>whatever the one next to it is called.........you wouldn't really bother
>with piddly 7m things at Ben Lomond though, would you? Is Wendy's Mega
>Route going to make the next edition of the guide? I have a bit of an unfair
>advantage there......all of my routes are going in the guide :)

If Possom Rocks was ever likely to go into the guide ...
>
>>Posting something constructive? Are you feeling ok?
>
>I'm feeling better now, thanks. How's Eds arse-gerbil doing?

It might be getting a bit bored now. Seems to have been there a while.
One Day Hero
8-Jan-2018
3:12:55 PM
On 6-Jan-2018 Wendy wrote:
>Do you have to go back to 1976 to find the last significant international
>visitor to Canberra?

It certainly seems like it.

>Oh the one decent bit of cliff that has one decent route on it that you
>have to climb the not so great Kundalini to get to? No, because we had
>been burnt out by the averageness of Kundalini.

I like how you refer to a 300m high x 100m wide wall as "the only decent bit of cliff". Also, you can scramble around the Kundalini buttress. There is plenty of good climbing at Mello, the downside is that the campground sucks and is expensive.......but hey, I think that goes for all of europe these days.

>I'm not rich, but i'm sort of notorious. Does that count? Seriously, I
>stayed in a squat in argentiere for 3 seasons 2005-7. Paid normal camping
>fees in 2008. Caught a few cable cars at about 20euro each, but you can
>walk if you really want. stayed in alpine huts for a mere 6 euro a night,
>but you could suffer through camping in the snow if you really want.

So....you recommend people go to Cham, sleep in a squat, catch 20euro cable cars, and climb amazing routes? Cause our friends who were there last summer had an expensiver experience, which involved a lot of standing in queues for routes.

>It might be getting a bit bored now. Seems to have been there a while.

I've heard it's keen to knock out a couple of walls, and redo the kitchen.

Eduardo Slabofvic
9-Jan-2018
7:15:43 AM
On 8-Jan-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 6-Jan-2018 Wendy wrote:
>
>>It might be getting a bit bored now. Seems to have been there a while.
>
>I've heard it's keen to knock out a couple of walls, and redo the kitchen.

I expect this kind of puerile dialogue from the unimaginative, but it's better than reading about how good everything you've ever done is.

Keep it up

Duang Daunk
9-Jan-2018
9:32:09 AM
On 9-Jan-2018 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
> it's better than reading about how good everything you've ever done is.
>
>Keep it up

Hey bro Ed, short of getting a room to share their route fever they were just getting to a climax, and you had to interrupt them?
Party pooper, umm . . party gerbil!
:(
Wendy
9-Jan-2018
2:42:20 PM
On 8-Jan-2018 One Day Hero wrote:

>
>>I'm not rich, but i'm sort of notorious. Does that count? Seriously,
>I
>>stayed in a squat in argentiere for 3 seasons 2005-7. Paid normal camping
>>fees in 2008. Caught a few cable cars at about 20euro each, but you can
>>walk if you really want. stayed in alpine huts for a mere 6 euro a night,
>>but you could suffer through camping in the snow if you really want.
>
>So....you recommend people go to Cham, sleep in a squat, catch 20euro
>cable cars, and climb amazing routes? Cause our friends who were there
>last summer had an expensiver experience, which involved a lot of standing
>in queues for routes.
>

Secret number one to Cham. Don't go to do the Rebuffet or cosmiques arete. There'll always be queues. Plus the teleferique up there is the most expensive in the whole valley. And don't stay in the cosmiques refuge, it's private and costs ++++.

And surely I don't need say it, but don't climb Mt Blanc.

Cheap, less crowded options - camp on the Plan. Lovely spot and you could even walk up there if you were that stingy. Do awesome routes on the Blatiere or the Peigne. only thing that had queues was the long old school thing up behind l'M whose name I've forgotton and whose climbing was some of the worst I did in 3 seasons anyway.

Catch the train to montenvers and walk up to the Envers. Cheapskates could again walk all the way from the bottom. Either camp or pay bed fee (SFA for austrian alpine club members) and bring your own food. Shitloads of awesome routes. Never queued there, even on the one weekend I was there when there were 60 people in the refuge.


kieranl
9-Jan-2018
5:46:06 PM
On 9-Jan-2018 Wendy wrote:
>Secret number one to Cham. Don't go to do the Rebuffet or cosmiques arete.
>There'll always be queues. Plus the teleferique up there is the most expensive
>in the whole valley. And don't stay in the cosmiques refuge, it's private
>and costs ++++.
>
>And surely I don't need say it, but don't climb Mt Blanc.
>
>Cheap, less crowded options - camp on the Plan. Lovely spot and you could
>even walk up there if you were that stingy. Do awesome routes on the Blatiere
>or the Peigne. only thing that had queues was the long old school thing
>up behind l'M whose name I've forgotton and whose climbing was some of
>the worst I did in 3 seasons anyway.
>
>Catch the train to montenvers and walk up to the Envers. Cheapskates could
>again walk all the way from the bottom. Either camp or pay bed fee (SFA
>for austrian alpine club members) and bring your own food. Shitloads of
>awesome routes. Never queued there, even on the one weekend I was there
>when there were 60 people in the refuge.
>
>


Patrick Taglianut at the Plan 1983
>


Patrick, NNE ridge of Peigne

Wendy
9-Jan-2018
6:57:57 PM
FŻck, was there a heat wave in 1983?
kieranl
9-Jan-2018
7:11:43 PM
Funny you should ask that. It was really dry in Cham and things started falling apart in mid-July. It was about this time that Joe Simpson's bivvy ledge fell off the Dru. We got fairly plastered with him at the Bar Nat after that. Georges Bettembourg was killed by massive rockfall while crystal hunting a month or so later. And then in August I spent 3 almost rainless weeks camped in North Wales.

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