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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	North Side	Pulpit Rock / Comet Ramp	[ Gorge Guide ]

Author

Defender of the faith

brendan

25-May-2009
6:25:35 PM

On 25/05/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 25/05/2009 brendan wrote:
>>i was looking at ledges, for my next mission. It seems the new BD Double
>>with a "simple fly" would be the way to go.
>
>There is a ledge for sale over here,
>but it does not have a fly.
>

yeah i figured i would go for a double, more space for just me on solo trips, at not much weight penalty, and most of the time i will have a belayer
out of intrest what ledge do you have rod? it seems you can really only get BD here


evanbb

25-May-2009
6:41:29 PM

Thanks for the vid Neil, I'm getting more and more psyched for Buffallo this year. When's a good time to go? Looks like similar granite to Booroomba, but is it as sharp?

There look to be some spectacular lines around the place. Got a 6 pitch grade 16 crack to recommend for me? What about a long corner under 20?


wallwombat

25-May-2009
6:45:08 PM

It's sharper than Booroomba.


nmonteith

25-May-2009
7:24:39 PM

I'm no great lover of Mt Buffalo - but here is a few routes for what you're after.

Grade 16 mulitptich - do Angels Fear to Tread. It's a bit longer than 6 pitches and a grade harder, but super (in a trench warfare kinda way)

Beowolf on the South Side rim is a great short punchy corner at 18. If you want a longer (and more old school) grade 18 do the mega Caligula. I thought it was a 3 star fist crack classic.


JamesMc

25-May-2009
8:03:28 PM

For long routes under 20, I'd recommend the Back Wall, but only if you don't mind a walk of about 4 km or so.

Especially Currency Lad Direct, the Bonaparte link up route and Quartz Route.

If you can hide your car, there's a good spot to camp there with water near by.

JamesMc


IdratherbeclimbingM9

26-May-2009
9:22:16 AM

brendan
>what ledge do you have rod?

Original version BD single with yellow fly. They did not have different fly versions when I got mine. In fact there were no flys available in Australia, so I ended up getting the ledge here, and the fly from England!

ww
>It's sharper than Booroomba.

Agreed, in fact way sharper in many places.

nm
>I'm no great lover of Mt Buffalo

That surprises me, especially after your adventures on the Nth Wall there.

JamesMc
>If you can hide your car

?
I have not found that necessary. The Rangers are very accepting of back-country pursuits and generally prefer to know what’s going on, ie if they know when you are due to return they won’t panic if they find an unattended vehicle left for a period of time.
On more than one occasion I have asked them to mind my motorcycle while I am off in the back-blocks and they have been happy to oblige.

brendan

23-May-2010
8:38:17 PM

scares the shit out of me now how easy it dislodged, and how many times i had rapped down that way, but the loose block above the third pitch on defender (the one with the chain anchor) is now some where at the bottom of the gorge. The thing was twice the size of my 150l haul bag. I had put a no 5 cam behind it (its 1 metre above the belay) before i released it was loose and should go. I'll try to put some photos up if anyone is intested


IdratherbeclimbingM9

23-May-2010
8:44:47 PM

Hmm.
Yes, I am interested. If it is not too much hassle, then pics would be good.
Cheers,
Idra~>M9

brendan

23-May-2010
9:02:54 PM

i'll email the pic's to you rod dont know how to put them up


IdratherbeclimbingM9

23-May-2010
9:34:36 PM

Here is a link for how to upload pics.
Note they need to be sized about 30 kb or they won't be accepted.

brendan

23-May-2010
9:38:33 PM

emailed them to you,

brendan

30-Dec-2010
9:31:50 PM

I solo aided "defender" over the last couple of days (first 3 pitches, jugged the last two as they look sh#t) just a couple of thoughts

>On 22/05/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>Belays are all good solid new bolts.

I found the first belay hard to find (a friend also couldnt find the belay a couple of months ago), In the topo it has two X's which i thought would be two bolts instead its an old carrot and a metre above an old pin with a hairline crack in the eye (i would have tried to pull it out but didnt have anything to remove it with) I built a natural belay with cams no worries, just meant i had less gear for the next pitch.

The move from the RP crack to around the corner to reach the bolt was hard, i dont know how a shorter person would do it (maybe a cheat stick?), I only just reached. I read somewhere that there was once two bolts? The next move after that when your on the bolt was up to an offset cam, then another mega reach to the left to blindly shove a cam in a crack and do another mini lower off on to it, again i feel sorry for short people trying the route.

>No need for big cams, but you will
>need at least doubles of #4. RP's are really useful for the first pitch
>- you will place quite a few of them in a row but they are all sinker.

I would say for "defender" you definatly need
-set of small cams ( I had BD C3)
-two set of cams (i had BD #.4 - #5 and doubles of #.5 - #4 and still had to back clean them)
-set of rp's (i had 2 sets)
-nuts (i had a set of BD that i only placed maybe 3 times on the route, i also had a full set of DMM nuts and placed the bigger sizes on every pitch)
-bolt plates/tie offs (there are a couple of carrots on the route)

i also had
-cam hooks (which i used on the 1st pitch, to speed things up)
-offset master cams to 00/0 - 2/3 (these are awesome, the cracks are quite flaring and these give you an extra degree of security)
-DMM peanuts
-#3 pecker (i hand placed this above the roof of the second pitch)


IdratherbeclimbingM9

30-Dec-2010
10:15:01 PM

Way to go brendan! Those lower pitches are great aren't they.

>the first belay hard to find

Depending on where you leave ropes (possibly a preset-up portaledge!), you can use the lowest belay on Rough Justice which has excellent bolts. This belay is actually the normal one used as part of the 'abseiling down Defender' access to Fuhrer Ledge!
From memory it is about 5m right and slightly lower than the original Defender one you used.

>i feel sorry for short people trying the route.

It is easier to follow the original crack till it blanks out and get pro in as high as possible, to then sort of tension-traverse/lower and reach leftwards around the corner at the same time, for next placement.
... ~> but of course you already know this now, unless you thugged it into submission with your tallness and reach!!
☺

brendan

30-Dec-2010
10:27:24 PM

the lower pitches are great, in fact i would recommend to people wanting to attempt "Ozymandias" but lacking in confidence to try "Defender" first. You can leave the last two pitches fixed like i did and you could always rap down with a haulbag and stay at the bottom if you dont make the three pitches in one day, plus if you do make it in one day the hauling would be good practice.

Fish Boy

31-Dec-2010
7:30:49 PM

Good work sonny, I was watching you on the first pitch while there was another team on Ozy.

My shorty mrs couldn't get the bolt of the first pitch, I went off her last piece, clipped the bolt then a good penji into the crack. Was fine...I'm not short though.

Did you score yourself my anchor just below the roof?

The last two pitches are junk, true, that's why the variant is there! That grade 20 final pitch is gold, don't miss it.

Fish Boy

31-Dec-2010
7:36:09 PM

Just checked facebook brendan, thanks!

There are 36 messages in this topic.