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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Northern	Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre	Taipan Wall	[ Taipan Images ]

Author

Taipan Super Topo....

deadpoint

6-Dec-2005
4:59:26 PM

Has been there quite a few years that I know off 2001.


nmonteith

6-Dec-2005
5:04:10 PM

On 6/12/2005 Dave J wrote:
>Do you think it would be possible
>to climb up into it from the top
>of Daedelus?

Possibly - but maybe not. I had a pretty good look across at Daedaelus form the hanging belay and
couldn't see any really obvious way across. There is plenty of those really slopy little rails though - but
maybe not enough to make it across.

23-Dec-2005
3:17:35 PM

> On 29/11/2005 Dave J wrote:
>>>I went out and did the grooved arete yeserday with rich heap...Fairly
>>>exciting (that rusty bolt was by far the best bit of gear on the route).

>...perhaps you should go and repeat it.

Rapped down it again last week (after finally getting round to ticking Dance of Life - yay) and I would be very keen to get on your new thing next. Great line and looks nice and airy! But if climbers of your ability were traumatised by the runout you can be sure I won't be going anywhere near it! Sooooo, with the shortage of 25s on Taipan ... would you and/or Rich be open to the idea of another bolt in this line? The rusty FH could be replaced at the same time... and I'd be happy to do the work. I can't make it any easier than that!!

I noticed a (reasonable?) shallow sideways wire just after you head left out of Clean Sweep, is there a good clipping stance a couple metres past that? Maybe when you first get into the groove on the arete??


JJ

23-Dec-2005
5:21:33 PM

Given that Taipan is the best wall in Oz, maybe you could introduce the contoversial 4th star?

In the Thailand guidebook they give out a 4th star every now and then. Might help out :-)

JJ

Dave J

30-Dec-2005
1:38:31 PM

On 23/12/2005 WM wrote:
>Rapped down it again last week (after finally getting round to ticking
>Dance of Life - yay) and I would be very keen to get on your new thing
>next. Great line and looks nice and airy! But if climbers of your ability
>were traumatised by the runout you can be sure I won't be going anywhere
>near it! Sooooo, with the shortage of 25s on Taipan ... would you and/or
>Rich be open to the idea of another bolt in this line? The rusty FH could
>be replaced at the same time... and I'd be happy to do the work. I can't
>make it any easier than that!!
>
>I noticed a (reasonable?) shallow sideways wire just after you head left
>out of Clean Sweep, is there a good clipping stance a couple metres past
>that? Maybe when you first get into the groove on the arete??

Good one with dance of life...thats a(nother) great route. I shall have to consult with rich about the bolt
situation. We had been talking about calling it "the lure" or "lure groove" (that lure being the lone bolt at the
top of the groove) and that name wouldn't make much sense if it were to be retroed. To be frank my
"ability" is questionable at the moment and its been a while since I had done anything on tiapan...let alone
on fiddly gear. Maybe someone who was going well would enjoy making their way up the sparsely
protected groove? Adding bolt down lower would turn the route into a bit of a one mover since the climbing
below the crux is quite a bit easier....having said all that I would have been absolutley delighted to have
had a bolt to clip when I was halfway up the groove. You could clip something from anywhere in that
groove...it was just the complete lack of things worth clipping that was the problem.

I guess you could do it as some kind of weirdo retribution for the bolts on your mantis route.

Perhaps just wait and I shall discuss it with rich...

In the meanwhile there are no shortage of cushy 25ish routes to do on tiapan, Mr J, Invisible fist, world
party, snake flake (these are a bit harder but not out of keeping with the new line on the arete left of
Dance of Life).


nmonteith

30-May-2006
9:41:02 AM

a new route! (cruelly stolen from me by an in-form Mr Pola!). Was supposed to be mega hard but
apparently it only goes at 26?!

Forked Tongue 20m 26 *
A rising travese line across a major feature linking Anaconda into Mr Joshua. Start at rap chain at end
of first pitch of Anaconda. Climb Anaconda for two bolts then out right into white 'cave'. Scuttle across
this (2 UB's) and then go go gadget span between scoops to reach juggy flake. Swing across this
(large wires/cams) then up final scoopy headwall (UB) to join into Mr Joshua pitch 1 for last move.
Backclean or get some idiot to second it.
Vision, steel and sweat by Neil Monteith 2005
FFA Toby Pola 28.5.2006


nmonteith

4-Dec-2006
11:07:24 AM

The TAIPAN SUPER TOPO will be a pullout in CRUX ISSUE 2 out at the end of the year.

Garry and Jake from Tassie did a few new things when they were in town recently.

Mr T 35m 25
A left variant to Mr Joshua. At the big horizontal break (just past the original routes crux) swing left
and up left side of scoop past two FHs then join up with Mr J for the finish move. A bit more straight
forward and easier than Mr Joshua (and better protected).

They also bolted a 2nd pitch to Snake Flake but didn''t send and toproped a variant start to Mr Joshua
(29?) but then pulled the bolts (??). I reckon this variant would be doable as a left rising traverse
(across Forked Tounge) and finising up near Anaconda somewhere.


Maxo

4-Dec-2006
11:51:39 PM

Should be 'Forked Tongue', if it is to be in keeping with the snake theme of the wall.


nmonteith

14-May-2007
10:36:41 AM

Another new route for Taipan...

* Rattlesnake Shake 35m 26 (mixed)
aka Kaa super direct. You'll be shaking on the slab section! Continually bouldery climbing split by good
rest stances. Traverse right as for Kaa to its second bolt (don't clip this!). Straight up grey streak
above past 6 FH's and a fixed wire up high. Route finishes in large cave at rap rings. You'll either need
a 70m rope to get down to the ground, or double ropes. Two #0.75 green camalots for the Kaa
traverse, the rest is fixed gear.
FFA Neil Monteith 12-05-2007

The 2 bolts on the chalked up right side of the lower Venom scoop are a direct direct start version to
this route, but it is awkward, and didn’t produce very good climbing and is contrived (its also grade 28).
By traversing an extra 2m across the Kaa traverse is makes it much nicer (described above). I’ll
probably remove these bolts...

simey

14-May-2007
10:45:41 AM

>Continually bouldery climbing split by good rest stances...

Doesn't sound too classic Neil.


nmonteith

14-May-2007
10:57:53 AM

By bouldery I meant 'hard to read' and by rest stances i mean hand jams in horizontals and knee bars.
There is no, 'no hands rests' on this route. It's quite sustained all the way, with several cruxes.

14-May-2007
12:58:39 PM

On 14/05/2007 simey wrote:
>Doesn't sound too classic Neil.

Gees give the poor fella a break. I've belayed him on it and I also toproped the top quarter or so (while rapping off after Kaa) - and my impression so far is that it's bloody excellent!! It's going straight onto my hit list, and it's definitely MUCH better than Kaa.

JakeB

14-May-2007
2:08:48 PM

rad more classic moves. can't wait!!! also what do people think about replacing the bolts in naja???
taipan awaits.....


nmonteith

14-May-2007
2:10:17 PM

On 14/05/2007 JakeB wrote:
>rad more classic moves. can't wait!!! also what do people think about replacing
>the bolts in naja???

...if you've got the energy, go for it!

I did Weak Boy and Mr T on the weekend. Fun fun fun!

JakeB

14-May-2007
2:14:24 PM

energy.... i think we can manage that....


nmonteith

14-May-2007
2:17:49 PM

Ado has his gear up on Carrdigan Street second pitch at the moment, and a handy fixed static to the
ground. It looks awesome! I'm sure it will get a few repeats in the next few weeks.


nmonteith

14-May-2007
5:12:12 PM

On 14/05/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>* Rattlesnake Shake 35m 26 (mixed)

Route was repeated by visiting Queeslander Mr Cujes today. His SMS read "f---ing awesome route,
there's some really sketchy bits compared to mr J" - so grade confirmed. :-)

31-Jul-2007
11:53:14 AM

I would PM Dave Jones direct but he hasn't been on chockstone for a month....does anyone know about his route Lurid (26) on Taipan? Did he rename Lure Groove and bump up the grade? or is there another route somewhere? any info appreciated

On 30/12/2005 Dave J wrote:
>We had been talking about calling it "the lure" or "lure groove"


Safer Cliffs Vic

31-Jul-2007
11:58:23 AM

Well, the 'definitive' CRUX super-topo was approved by Dave, and he called it Lure Groove and gave it
25. I've emailed you his email adress Will so you can double check!

Dave J

31-Jul-2007
4:24:31 PM

Jake

From memory the number postion of the bolts were pretty good....at least on the top pitch which is
wherre people wold be falling off....the anchor at the belay could probably be improved....and and
anchor at the top probably wouldnt hurt either.

Have you tried the route? I dont know of anyone who's done it???

if you want to replace the bolts I'll give you some money for it....let me know what it comes to.

There are 108 messages in this topic.